Schwalm Costume – The Undershirts

As already mentioned in “Schwalm Costume – an overview“, the festive costume consisted of many different elements. Where to begin? Pure and simple, where we all normally start dressing – with the underclothing.

Women in the Schwalm wore undershirts. I do not know of underpants at the time. Later, when the Schwalm woman will be fully dressed, you will be able to imagine why.

The undershirt was made from pure linen. It was a little more than knee long and simply shaped – a little bit wider at the bottom.

Sommer-Unterhemd | Summer-undershirt
Rückseite | backside

The Summer-undershirt was sleeveless and without any closure. The Winter-undershirt had long sleeves and maybe a band for closing.

Seitenansicht | side view
Winter-Unterhemd | Winter-undershirt

Tablecloth for all Seasons – January: Snowballs

January is the snowiest month of the year here. So, I decided to create snowballs to decorate the monthly tablecloth.

A simple circle design with a double line (Here: internal diameter 7.3 cm; external diameter 8.5 cm) was ironed on Weddigen linen, 13.5/cm thread count. I think ironing is the best way to get a true circle on the linen.

2014-01-18_pdf

Use Coton à broder No. 16 for Coral Knot stitches, No. 20 for Blanket stitches and for Chain stitches. Coral Knot stitches were worked along the inner line. Chain stitches were worked a small distance outside, the Coral Knot stitches. The outside Chain stitches were covered with densely worked Blanket stitches between the outline and the Coral Knot line.

Using Coton à broder No. 30 Chain stitches were worked directly inside the Coral Knot stitches. The shape was filled with pattern “445”.

Randbefestigung | edge securing

After finishing, the embroidered piece was washed (boiled), starched and ironed. Then, the circle was cut.

Ausschneiden | cut the finished pieceIf needed, such closely trimmed embroidery can be washed and ironed – quick and easy – at any time, but never spun in a washing machine!

Platzierung auf der Decke | placement on the cloth

To decorate your tablecloth with snowballs, work several and place them in a pleasing arrangement over the tabletop.linienförmige Anordnung | arrangement in a straight line

Of course, such small doilies also can be used as coasters.

Verwendung als Untersetzer | use as coaster

Filling Pattern No. 445

No. 445 (star No. 1)
category: Openwork pattern with Cable stitch grid
stitches used: Rose stitches and Needleweaving over 1 and 3 squares; changing the direction
center: square
material used: 13.5/cm thread-count Weddigen linen
Coton à broder No. 20 (Coral Knot stitches, Rose stitches and needleweaving) and No. 30 (Chain
stitches and Cable stitch)

In Schwalm whitework it is also common to fill openwork cable stitch grids not only with endless patterns, but also with figures: manikin, birds, tulips, hearts and, of course, stars.

The star patterns are the same as those found in Norwegian knitting patterns, but there is any room for imagination.

Stars are mainly worked within circles. Usually, the stars are stitched with Rose stitches, sometimes with a combination of Rose stitches and Needleweaving, and rarely with needleweaving only. This is because a single square filled with a Rosestitch remains as a square, a single square filled with needleweaving appears oblong. For a star, it is preferable that the squares do not appear oblong.

There are smaller and wider star patterns. You should always use a pattern that matches the number of squares in your grid. It is not attractive when the tip of a star is not fully visible. It is better that there are unworked squares around the star. Also, these remaining squares can be filled with single stitches.

Starting at the centre, always alternate withdrawing and leaving two vertical threads. Do the same with the horizontal threads. So that the star looks pretty and turns out well, it is necessary to place it right in the middle (with the same number of squares to the right as to the left). If your linen is not absolutely evenweave, it is better to ascertain the centre by counting and not by measuring.

Fadenauszug | thread withdrawing

The established grid is stabilized with Single Faggot stitches – which is simply Cable stitch from the front – worked from the back side of the fabric.
Grundstichgitter | Cable stitch grid

My established grid has 23 squares along the center axes. So I chose the following chart:
442 a Grafik | chart

The darker golden squares are filled with Rose stitches, the lighter golden squares are filled with Needleweaving. (It would be also possible to work all with Rose stitches, but then the patterns will appear somewhat different.) The black lines show the direction of the needleweaving.

Starting at the center – marked red – work outwards, following the chart.
Musterfüllung | filling pattern
Grundstern | basic star

When the star is finished, the remaining squares up to the edge can be decorated with further stitches. There are different possibilities, as the following charts show:
442 b Grafik | chart
There is room for imagination – please try to find your own pattern!

I chose the following pattern:
442 Grafik | chart

Embroidered it looks like this:
fertiger Stern | finished star

Schwalm Costumes – Literature

There are a number of books dealing with the Schwalm costumes. The scholarly texts are usually written in German, but there are some picture books and books with English text.
I include all here.
A scholarly approach is found in

  • Ingo Gabor
  • Die Schwälmer Tracht
  • Historische Entwicklung und soziale Bedeutung
  • Schriftenreihe der C.H.Schmitt Stiftung
  • Band 2
  • 2008
  • ISBN 978-3-00-027137-3
Die Schwälmer Tracht - Ingo Gabor
Die Schwälmer Tracht - Ingo Gabor - contents

In its many pictures, one can admire the Schwalm costumes in the book of

  • Heinz Rübeling/Heinz Metz/Dirk Ordemann
  • Die Schwälmer Tracht
  • Verlag Dirk Ordemann, Ziegenhain
  • 1988
  • ISBN 3-9802008-0-9
Die Schwälmer Tracht - Heinz Rübeling/Heinz Metz/Dirk Ordemann
Die Schwälmer Tracht - Heinz Rübeling/Heinz Metz/Dirk Ordemann - contents
  • also with text in English as:
  • Little Red Riding Hood
  • The History of the Traditional Costumes of the Schwalm

Little_Red_Riding_Hood

Studies on the surviving regional clothing of the Schwalm are found in

  • Brunhilde Miehe
  • Der Tracht treu geblieben Bd. 3
  • Studien zum regionalen Kleidungsverhalten in der Schwalm
  • Eigenverlag 2004
  • ISBN 3-9801197-5-0
Der Tracht treu geblieben Bd. 3 - Brunhilde Miehe
Der Tracht treu geblieben Bd. 3 - Brunhilde Miehe - contents

An overview of the many different forms of the Schwalm costumes, including lots of pleasant details worth knowing such as the “Schappel” (hairdressing and application of the headdress of a bride) or the manufacture of buttons, can be found in the booklet of

  • Erika Decker
  • Die Schwälmer Tracht
  • von der Wiege bis zur Bahre
  • originalgetreu nachgearbeitet und beschrieben an 52 Puppen
  • Begleitheft für die Puppenausstellung im Schwälmer Dorfmuseum Holzburg
  • Eigenverlag 2011
Die Schwälmer Tracht von der Wiege bis zur Bahre - Erika Decker
Die Schwälmer Tracht von der Wiege bis zur Bahre - Erika Decker - contents

Interesting insights – but in black and white – can be found in the book

  • August Gandert/Brunhilde Miehe
  • Handwerk und Volksskunst in der Schwalm
  • Schwälmer Heimatbund 1983
Handwerk und Volksskunst in der Schwalm - August Gandert/Brunhilde Miehe
Handwerk und Volksskunst in der Schwalm - August Gandert/Brunhilde Miehe - contents

Also, there are many interesting articles in the yearbooks of the “Schwälmer Heimatbund” – from 1971 to today – that deal with the costumes.
Jahrbuch_1999

Dealing especially with the dyed to blue costume parts and the bobbin lace commonly used in the Schwalm, is the trilingual book

  • Marianne Stang/Anneliese Wienands/ Elda Gantner/Meike Gehrmann
  • Kostbarkeiten in Blau
  • Masterpieces in blue
  • Le bleu à l´honneur
  • OIDFA
  • ISBN 3-923219-19-9
Masterpieces in blue - Marianne Stang/Anneliese Wienands/ Elda Gantner/Meike Gehrmann
Masterpieces in blue - Marianne Stang/Anneliese Wienands/ Elda Gantner/Meike Gehrmann