Openwork pattern

category: openwork filling pattern without Cable stitch grid
linen used: 13.5/cm thread count
threads used: coton à broder No. 20 for the Rose and the Satin stitches
stitches used: Rose and Satin stitches
center: intersection of withdrawn thread lines (square)
one pattern segment: 18 threads

The filling pattern shown here is a practice exercise only. Here you can see it used in a shape.
First, establish an openwork grid with a square (an intersection of withdrawn thread lines) in the center by cutting 2, leaving 2 both vertically and horizontally.

At a distance of one empty square below the center square, begin to embroider rose stitches in a diagonal row to the top left.

Turn the work and embroider a second row at a distance of three empty squares – counted in a horizontal row – parallel to the first.

Further parallel rows are embroidered at the same distance until the entire area is filled.

Then work a Rose stitch in the square to the right below the center square. Then bring the needle up in the center square.

Wrap the right pair of threads on the square from right to left,

three times in all.

After the third stitch, move the needle under the intersection of threads to the square above the center.

From there wrap the upper pair of threads of the center square from bottom to top, again a total of three times.

After the third stitch, move the needle under the intersection of threads to the next square diagonally to the top left.

From there work a Rose stitch again, starting with the stitch to the left.

In the established way alternately work one Rose stitch and 2 x 3 Satin stitches.

Turn the work 180° and embroider in the established way three Satin stitches over the remaining free vertical

and three Satin stitches over the remaining free horizontal thread pair.

After the third stitch, move the needle undercrossing the Rose stitch into the next empty square.

In this way work 2 x 3 Satin stitches over the remaining free pairs of threads until the row is filled.

The other remaining free rows are embroidered in the established way, making sure that the rose stitches of the adjacent rows are in one line.

(A similar, but slightly more nondescript, pattern can be achieved by working the Rose stitch grid into a Cable stitch grid. This saves the need for Satin stitches, but requires securing the entire grid with Cable stitches first. I’ve browsed through my vast collection of patterns to show you the difference. Unfortunately, not a single pattern worked in this way was included.)

category: openwork filling pattern with Cable stitch grid
linen used: 13.5/cm thread count
threads used: coton à broder No. 30 for the Cable stitches and No. 20 for the Needle-weaving and the Rose stitches
stitches used: Cable and Rose stitches
center: intersection of pairs of fabric threads
one pattern segment: = 28 threads

While embroidering from No. 565, I came up with the idea of modifying the pattern with additional Needle-weaving stitches. This makes the workflow a little more fluid.

The filling pattern shown here is a practice exercise only.

First, establish an openwork grid with an intersection of pairs of threads in the center by cutting 2, leaving 2 both vertically and horizontally.

Stabilize the established grid with Single Faggot stitches worked from the back side of the fabric. Please remember that Single Faggot stitch worked on the back side will look like Cable stitch viewed from the front.

Then the first part of the desired pattern – made up from Rose stitches in squares of 4 x 4 stitches and always 3 Rose stitches in a diagonal row in between – is embroidered into the Cable stitch grid.

Therefore bring the needle up in the second square diagonally from the center

and embroiders a square of 4 x 4 Rose stitches around the center square of 2 x 2 remaining free squares.
From one corner of the resulting square, embroider 3 diagonal Rose stitches.
The fourth Rose stitch on this diagonal row is the corner point of the next square of 4 x 4 Rose stitches.
Slide the working thread on the back through existing stitches to the next emerging point

and gradually build up the pattern.

The second part of the pattern is embroidered in a distance of one remaining free square to the first part. It consists of Needle-weaving stitches over 4 squares in width and one square in in height, worked in a stair-step manner and with single Rose stitches in between.

The constant alternation between the two parts creates a pattern

that is effective through the contrast between smoother-looking Needle-weaving stitches and rougher-looking rose stitches.

category: openwork filling pattern with Cable stitch grid
linen used: 13.5/cm thread count
threads used: coton à broder No. 30 for the Cable stitches and No. 20 for the Rose stitches
stitches used: Cable and Rose stitches
center: intersection of pairs of fabric threads
one pattern segment: = 28 threads

The filling pattern shown here is a practice exercise only. You can see it used in a shape at the end of this article.

First, establish an openwork grid with an intersection of pairs of threads in the center by cutting 2, leaving 2 both vertically and horizontally.

Stabilize the established grid with Single Faggot stitches worked from the back side of the fabric. Please remember that Single Faggot stitch worked on the back side will look likeCable stitch viewed from the front.

Then the desired pattern – made up of Rose stitches in squares of 4 x 4 stitches and “five-cubes” – is embroidered into the grid.

Bring needle up in the second square diagonally from the center

and embroiders a square of 4 x 4 Rose stitches around the center square of 2 x 2 remaining free squares.

From one corner of the resulting square, embroider 3 diagonal Rose stitches.

The fourth Rose stitch on this diagonal row is the corner point of the next square of 4 x 4 Rose stitches.
Slide the working thread on the back through existing stitches to the next emerging point

and gradually build up the pattern.

This pattern also looks very nice when it is placed diagonally in a motif area, as is the case here.

Filling Pattern – No. 560

category: openwork filling pattern without Cable stitch grid
linen used: 13.5/cm thread count
threads used: coton à broder No. 20
stitches used: Double Back stitches
center: intersection of four fabric threads
one pattern segment = 6 threads

The filling pattern shown here is a practice exercise only. You can see it used in a shape at the end of this article.

First, establish an openwork grid with an intersection of four threads in the center by cutting 2, leaving 4 (!) both vertically and horizontally.

Work Double Back stitches in eight steps as establishes in the article Filling Pattern – No. 559 (here shown without turning the piece).

Continue working Double Back stitches in the established way covering each intersection square to fil the entire shape.

From the front the pattern looks like this:

This pattern is similar to the “Filling Pattern – No. 469 “, but here the stitches of the working threads are not pulled together in the end.

As a result, the intersection squares remain relatively flat

Filling Pattern – No. 560 is also embroidered in an elaborate border of a parade cushion from 1821.

Filling Pattern – No. 559

category: openwork filling pattern without Cable stitch grid
linen used: 13.5/cm thread count
threads used: coton à broder No. 20
stitches used: Rose and Double Back stitches
center: intersection of four fabric threads
one pattern segment = 8 threads

In Vivian Kwok’s contribution #85 to the Global Schwalm Sampler, I discovered a filling pattern that I found interesting because of the slit-like holes that were created by tightening the Rose stitches.

This pattern is not necessarily typical for Schwalm whitework. It seems to come from Hardanger embroidery. However, since Schwalm whitework often deviated from the thread extraction sequence that is common today, I am also showing this pattern for Schwalm border motifs.

The filling pattern shown here is a practice exercise only. You can see it used in a shape at the end of this article.

First, establish an openwork grid with an intersection of four threads in the center by cutting 4, leaving 4 both vertically and horizontally.

Rose stitches are worked into the holes created. Each single “leg” of a Rose stitch takes up only two of the four Fabric threads. Work is done in diagonal rows from bottom right to top left.

*Bring the needle up (point where the needle emerges = center of the stitch) in an empty square, loop the thread up and to the left, cross over two threads to the left, insert the needle and bring it up in the center again with the looped thread beneath the needle. Tighten thread, but not too much so.

Loop the thread to the right and up, cross over two threads up, insert the needle and bring it up in the center hole again. Notice that the looped thread is beneath the needle. Tighten thread.

Loop the thread downward and to the right, cross over two threads to the right, insert the needle and bring it up in the center again with the thread beneath the needle. Tighten thread.

Loop the thread down and to the left, cross over two threads at the bottom, insert the needle and bring it up in the center again with the looped thread beneath the needle. Tighten thread.

After working the fourth stitch, the working thread comes up to the right of the fourth stitch. Cross over the fourth stitch to the left and insert the needle at the bottom of the center hole.*

In this way, the working thread traveling from Rose stitch to Rose stitch is nearly invisible from the front.
Bring the needle up in the next center, one square diagonally left up. Continue working Rose stitches in the established way.

With the help of the needle, the single stitches of a Rose stitch can be shifted a little bit so that they lie in the middle of a square side.
Continue working in the same way, until the entire shape is filled.

I was not fully satisfied with my first attempt.
In order to give the pattern more stability, Double Back stitches are now worked – from the back and over the fabric thread intersections (Please see detailed steps further down.)

A comparison between the area with added Double Back stitches (see picture below, right side) and the area without shows that Double Back stitches helped to improve the pattern’s appearance.

Nevertheless, I was not satisfied and started a new attempt.

Again, first is to establish an openwork grid with an intersection of four threads in the center by cutting 4, leaving 4 both vertically and horizontally.

Because it is much easier, the Double Back stitches are now worked first. They are worked on the back of the fabric in 8 steps.

1. Coming from the bottom, pick up the left pair of threads on top of an intersection square from right to left. Pull the thread through.

2. Pick up the same pair of fabric threads underneath the intersection square from right to left. Make sure that you also catch the traveling working thread. Pull the thread through and tighten it.

3. Pick up the right pair of threads on top of an intersection square from right to left. Pull the thread through and tighten it.

4. Pick up the same pair of threads underneath the intersection square from right to left. Pull the thread through and tighten it.

5. Turn the piece 90° clockwise.

Pick up the now left pair of threads underneath the intersection square from right to left. Pull the thread through and tighten it.

6. Pick up the same pair of threads on top of the intersection square from right to left. Pull the thread through and tighten it.

7. Pick up the right pair of threads underneath the intersection square from right to left. Pull the thread through and tighten it.

8. Pick up the same pair of threads on top of the intersection square from right to left. Pull the thread through and tighten it.

Turn the piece back 90° counterclockwise and slide the working thread through the left side of the made crosses

to start the next Double Back stitch by picking up the left pair of threads on top of the next upward intersection square from right to left.

Continue working Double Back stitches in the established way covering each intersection square until the entire shape is filled.
From the front a nice pattern is seen.

Such patterns are also found in traditional Schwalm whitework, as in a border of a parade cushion from 1832.

It could stand alone, if fewer threads were cut. This filling pattern will be published as Filling Pattern No. 560 in an upcoming article.
In the circle motif I added Rose stitches from the front of the fabric as explained at the top of this article.

Working this pattern the other way around is not only easier but it also makes the pattern appearance more even.