tips and tricks

Small leaves pointed on both ends and approximately elliptic are common elements of Schwalm whitework. Some embroiderers have told me about their difficulties while working these leaves. So here are detailed instructions for working them. The examples shown here are worked on 16/cm thread count linen using coton à broder No. 25. I have provided two line drawings of different sizes.
The smaller one (about 4.5 cm X 3 cm) is for the advanced stitcher. Beginners should use the larger design (about 5.9 X 3.9 cm) for practicing. So that you get the designs in the right sizes, you can use my new service and download for free a pdf document with the line drawings.

Transfer the design to the linen – keeping in mind that when ironing it to the linen, the design ends up mirrored.
Stretch the piece in a hoop.
First, draw a line in the middle of the leaves; do this by starting at the stem and ending at about the same distance from the top point as from the sides.
Secure the thread, and bring the needle up where the outline of the leaf meets the stem. Work a first small Satin stitch directly along the outline.
Position subsequent stitches between the outline and the middle line. However, the stitches should not cover the middle line.
Densely work the stitches
following the shape of the leaf; that means the stitches do not lie quite parallel – at the center of the leaf they are slightly closer together than at the outside edge. Always turn the piece so that the needle runs horizontally from right to left.
The stitch at the tip of the leaf should run straight from the middle line to the top point. So that the leave looks truly pointed in the end, this stitch is made 1–2 mm beyond the outline.
The second side of the leaf is worked from the tip back to the stem, always taking the needle down at the outside edge and bringing it back up at middle line.
Also, remember to turn the piece so that the needle runs horizontally from right to left.
The opposite leaf is embroidered in the same way. The first stitch begins at the stem and is taken a small distance along the outside edge.
The stitch at the tip is made a small step beyond the outline before the second side of the leaf is worked between outside edge and middle line.
Again, the stitches follow the shape of the leaf and fan apart a little bit at the outside edge.
Please keep in mind that the leaves shown here could not be worked smoothly in one move because I had to stop and take pictures. Furthermore, please keep in mind that the images are enlarged where every tiny stitch imperfection is magnified. After removing the marking lines and shrinking by boiling, and when the piece is starched and ironed, these leaves look perfect.
Simply give it a try.

If you take pleasure in working these leaves and if you are looking for more elaborate designs, here are my suggestions. Irmgard Mengel prints the designs on 16/cm (or 40/inch) thread count linen.
The leaves-hearts-wreath design measures 60 cm in diameter and is printed on linen cut to size 90 cm X 90 cm. It is €29 + shipping in addition.
The star-square design is printed on linen cut to size 65 cm X 65 cm. It has a price of €22 + shipping in addition.
If you are interested, please email me (leuchtbergverlag@aol.com).

It is no problem to work a fork if the offshoot is at a right angel or nearly a right angel to the main stem, as the practicing project (1) shows. The more acute the angle, the more difficult it is to neatly work the fork.
Tendrils simply added to the side of a stem do not look very nice,
as the first three pictures show.
In contrast, tendrils growing smoothly out of the stem are very attractive.
I’d like to share a little tip for making forks that turn out well.
The last stitch before reaching the fork is worked somewhat wider than the others. If you want to work an offshoot on the right, widen the stitch a small step to the right.
After making one wider stitch, continue working in the established way.
If you want to work an offshoot on the left, widen the stitch a small step to the left
and then continue working in the established way.
This creates a small space for adding an offshoot growing out of a line.
The results are perfectly worked forks for stems
and tendrils.

The tendril is a common and popular pattern element of Schwalm whitework. Often very distinctive examples are used.
To be able to stitch tendrils neatly and orderly, an exact pattern is needed. The line drawing below has an original size of approximately 2 cm X 2 cm.

Ideally, the exact line is transferred to the linen.
The stitching of tendrils always begins at the straight end and progresses inward along the curved line to the center. Tendrils should never be worked with too fine a thread. Depending on the thread count of the linen, coton à broder No. 16 or No. 20 would be ideal.
While working the Coral Knot stitches, always rotate the piece stitch-by-stitch
so that the needle is always perpendicular to the tendril line. This helps the embroiderer to follow the curve exactly.
If the thread gets short – which can happen when working large tendrils – take the needle to the back directly after the last knot,
and secure the thread in the back of some stitches. Fasten the new thread in the same way.
Bring the needle up – a tiny step back – directly near, or better yet through, the just ended thread. In this way, the transition is nearly invisible.
Do not end the Coral Knot stitches at the center in a straight line. After the very last Coral Knot stitch, take the needle to the back with a small inward stitch.
This makes a nice tight curl in the center of the tendril.
Even unwashed and unironed the tendril looks well done!

Do you feel the same way? As we get older it gets more and more difficult to do simple tasks like threading a needle. One does not always have access to a needle threader, so here´s a clever way to thread a needle without using a special tool.
Place the thread loosely over the index finger of the left hand.
Place the eye of the needle upon the thread and press it lightly against the finger.
Hold the needle in this position, and move the finger back and forth in the direction of the thread.
The thread rises through the eye after only the first movements.
Move your finger a few more times until the resulting loop is large enough
to pull the thread through the eye.
In order to understand the technique, you should practice with a large-eye needle and a thin thread.
It took some practice for me to achieve success, but now it works well, even with fine needles and heavier threads.
Brenda shared this tip with me during the last workshop, as she watched me struggling to thread a needle without a tool.
Thanks for sharing, Brenda!
Just I realized, that Susan Greening Davis was the one who taught Brenda and also all her students the needlethreadin after the last 30 years. I hope, you are not angry with me because of sharing.