Filling Pattern – No. 583

category: simple drawn thread filling pattern
linen used: 13.5/cm thread-count
threads used: coton à broder No. 20
stitches used: Wave stitches
horizontal center axis: withdrawn thread line

First, remove the center fabric thread in the direction in which the pattern will later run.

Starting from the resulting withdrawn thread line, leave always 5 fabric threads and withdrawt one.

Again starting from the center thread line, skip a 5-thread group and withdraw the middle one of the next 5-thread group.

Then skip two 5-thread groups at a time and withdraw the middle one of the next 5-thread group.

This creates an alternation of two 5-thread groups with two 2-thread groups each.

Starting in the middle (here rotated by 90°), now work Wave stitches over 6 fabric threads in width,

both via the 5-thread groups

as well as the 2-thread groups.

By alternating two high and two flat rows of mosquito stitches, an interesting, easy-to-embroider striped pattern is created. This can be used both horizontally

and vertically, depending on the desired effect.

This pattern was embroidered by Yasuko Kobayashi from Japan. She also gave me permission to share it here.
Thank you so much for sharing, dear Yasuko!

See also: See What My Readers Have Embroidered in 2016!

Filling Pattern – No. 582

Filling Pattern – No. 582

category: openwork filling pattern with Cable stitch grid
linen used: 13.5/cm thread count
threads used: coton à broder No. 30 for the Cable stitches and No. 20 for the Rose stitches
stitches used: Cable and Rose stitches
center: intersection of withdrawn thread lines (square)
one pattern segment: 48 threads

The filling pattern shown here is a practice exercise only. You can see it used in a shape at the end of this article.

First, establish an openwork grid with a square (an intersection of withdrawn thread lines) in the center by cutting 2, leaving 2 both vertically and horizontally.

Stabilize the established grid with Single Faggot stitches worked from the back side of the fabric. Please remember that Single Faggot stitch worked on the back side will look like Cable stitch viewed from the front.

Start in the fourth square below the center. The end of the working thread remains on the front side for now.

Work a rose stitch into this square. It’s a good idea to place the first part of the rose stitch in the direction you want to continue stitching later—i.e., the first partial stitch upwards if you want to work additional rose stitches above; the first partial stitch to the left if you want to work additional rose stitches to the left, and so on. This ensures that the square’s area is well covered.

After completing the first rose stitch, move the needle diagonally one square to the top right and from there work three rose stitches to the left.

In the square above the middle rose stitch, embroider another rose stitch, then emerge a square diagonally to the top right

and from there work three rose stitches to the left. After completing the third rose stitch, emerge a square above,

from there, embroider four rose stitches to the left.

Then move the needle diagonally one square to the right and one square down.
There, work a rose stitch, and then move the needle two squares up. There, work another rose stitch.

Leave 1 square remaining free to the right (to ensure that the square in between remains well defined and open, slide the working thread through a cable stitch on the back).

From there, work three rose stitches to the right. Over the middle of the three stitches, work a cross of one, three, and one rose stitches. The working thread is brought back to the square to the right of the center on the back.

From there, four rose stitches are worked to the right and then the needle is moved diagonally one square to the left and one square down.

There work a rose stitch and then move the needle up two squares. There work another rose stitch.

The first element of the pattern is finished.

An identical element is embroidered at intervals of three empty squares.

From the middle of the three remaining squares, leave one more square free and then embroider further elements to the left and right.

In this way fill the entire area.

An extraordinary pattern emerges,

which appears particularly effective in large areas, as here on a tablecloth from 1927.

Filling Pattern – No. 581

Filling Pattern – No. 581

category: openwork filling pattern with Cable stitch grid
linen used: 13.5/cm thread count
threads used: coton à broder No. 30 for the Cable stitches and No. 20 for the Rose stitches
stitches used: Cable and Rose stitches
center: intersection of withdrawn thread lines (square)
one pattern segment: 34 threads

The filling pattern shown here is a practice exercise only. You can see it used in a shape at the end of this article.

First, establish an openwork grid with a square (an intersection of withdrawn thread lines) in the center by cutting 2, leaving 2 both vertically and horizontally.

Stabilize the established grid with Single Faggot stitches worked from the back side of the fabric. Please remember that Single Faggot stitch worked on the back side will look like Cable stitch viewed from the front.

Bring the needle up in the second square below the center. The end of the working thread remains on the front side for now.

Work a Rose stitch into this square. It’s a good idea to place the first part of the Rose stitch in the direction you want to continue stitching later—i.e., the first partial stitch upwards if you want to work additional Rose stitches above; the first partial stitch to the left if you want to work additional Rose stitches to the left, and so on. This ensures that the square’s area is well covered.

After completing the first Rose stitch, move the needle diagonally one square to the top right

and from there work three Rose stitches to the left.

In the square above the third Rose stitch and the one to the left of it, embroider two more Rose stitches, then emerge one square diagonally to the top right

and from there, work three Rose stitches to the right. After completing the third Rose stitch, emerge one square diagonally to the top left.

In this square work one Rose stitch and then move the needle diagonally one square to the right and two squares down.

From there, work two Rose stitches to the right and then move the needle one square up and two squares to the right.

To ensure that the surrounding squares remain well defined and open, the working thread is slided through a Cable stitch on the back.

The first element of the pattern is complete. From the new starting point, stitch Rose stitches diagonally to the top left.

four in total.

A second,

a third and

a fourth row of four Rose stitches each follows. This completes the second element of the pattern.

Move the needle diagonally one square to the right and two squares down and start embroidering the first element from there.

On the diagonal, element 1 and element 2 alternate constantly. If the first thread is too short and is secured, the starting thread can also be pulled to the back and secured there.

A very beautiful pattern is created,

which appears particularly effective in large areas, as here on a tablecloth from 1927.

Filling Pattern – No. 580

Filling Pattern – No. 580

category: Limet-Filling pattern
linen used: 13.5/cm thread count
threads used: coton à broder No. 20
stitches used: Satin stitches and parts of square eyelets
center: intersection of withdrawn thread lines (in other shapes or motifs longitudinal axis = withdrawn thread line)
one pattern segment: 20 fabric threads

This pattern for larger motifs can be used for shapes both on the straight of grain and shapes on the bias.

The filling pattern shown here is a practice exercise only. You can see it used in a shape at the end of this article.

First, establish a Limet grid with an intersection of withdrawn thread lines at the center by alternately cutting 1, leaving 3, vertically and horizontally.

Mark around the center point by working Satin stitch bars around an area of 4 X 4 squares (the center point situated directly in center).

Continue working Satin stitch bars over one square (3 threads) in the width and 4 squares (12 stitches) in the length in a stair-step manner

until the entire shape is filled.

Free squares of 4 x 4 small squares have been formed. Square eyelet parts are embroidered into these. Worked is counterclockwise with 56 stitches.
Starting from a corner point, emerge the needle one square(3 X 3 fabric threads) diagonally inwards

and *wrap this corner square

with 7 Satin stitches, each starting from the same point. The working thread is moderately tensioned after each stitch so that it lies smoothly but does not pull any fabric threads together.
After the seventh stitch, bring the needle to the center of the 4 X 4 squares.

From there work 7 stitches between the center and the edge directly next to the previously worked stitches, moving one fabric thread further along the edge with each stitch.

After the seventh stitch, bring the needle straight down one square*

rotate the work 90° clockwise and repeat steps (*)

three times in all.

After the 56th and final stitch, bring the needle to the first emerging point of the next 4 X 4 square by sliding the working thread on the back through existing stitches,

and then work as established until the entire shape is filled

I called this arrangement of quarters of the simple square eyelet and 7 stitches of the double square eyelet “gingerbread” because the formation reminds me of the Christmas pastries popular in Germany.

This pretty pattern can also be embroidered into motifs on the bias, as shown here with the tulip.

To do this, however, you have to prepare the Limet thread grid accordingly. Details can be found in this article

Then continue in the established way.

Now I wish you an enjoyable time. I’m going to take a break now and then get back to you with a newsletter.

Filling Pattern – No. 579

category: Limet-Filling pattern
linen used: 13.5/cm thread count
threads used: coton à broder No. 20
stitches used: Back-, Straight- and Satin stitches
center: center: intersection of withdrawn thread lines (in other shapes or motifs: longitudinal axis = withdrawn thread line)
one pattern segment = 8 threads

The filling pattern shown here is a practice exercise only. You can see it used in a shape in the end of this article.

First, establish a Limet grid with a withdrawn thread line as the longitudinal axis by alternately cutting 1, leaving 3, vertically and horizontally.

Turn the motif 90° counterclockwise and embroider Backstitches over 3 fabric threads each along the central longitudinal axis.

At the end of the row, after completing the last Backstitch, bring needle up one square diagonally to the top left.

Cross under the working thread of the first Backstitch,

insert the needle 2 squares below the emerging point and move the needle up two squares and one square to the right and bring it up there.

*Cross under the working thread of the next free Backstitch,

insert the needle 2 squares below the emerging point and move the needle up two squares and one square to the right and bring it up there.*

Repeat these three steps (*) until the row is finished.
*Then leave a space of one square between a finished row and the next row of Backstitches

and work the row there with Backstitches and the row back with Straightstitches in the established way.*

Repeat these both steps (*),

until the entire area is filled.

When turned back to the original position, the pattern looks like this:

This pattern can be used as both a horizontal and vertical stripe pattern. It also looks interesting if you place it on the motif from top to bottom.