filling patterns

Filling Pattern – No. 582

category: openwork filling pattern with Cable stitch grid
linen used: 13.5/cm thread count
threads used: coton à broder No. 30 for the Cable stitches and No. 20 for the Rose stitches
stitches used: Cable and Rose stitches
center: intersection of withdrawn thread lines (square)
one pattern segment: 48 threads

The filling pattern shown here is a practice exercise only. You can see it used in a shape at the end of this article.

First, establish an openwork grid with a square (an intersection of withdrawn thread lines) in the center by cutting 2, leaving 2 both vertically and horizontally.

Stabilize the established grid with Single Faggot stitches worked from the back side of the fabric. Please remember that Single Faggot stitch worked on the back side will look like Cable stitch viewed from the front.

Start in the fourth square below the center. The end of the working thread remains on the front side for now.

Work a rose stitch into this square. It’s a good idea to place the first part of the rose stitch in the direction you want to continue stitching later—i.e., the first partial stitch upwards if you want to work additional rose stitches above; the first partial stitch to the left if you want to work additional rose stitches to the left, and so on. This ensures that the square’s area is well covered.

After completing the first rose stitch, move the needle diagonally one square to the top right and from there work three rose stitches to the left.

In the square above the middle rose stitch, embroider another rose stitch, then emerge a square diagonally to the top right

and from there work three rose stitches to the left. After completing the third rose stitch, emerge a square above,

from there, embroider four rose stitches to the left.

Then move the needle diagonally one square to the right and one square down.
There, work a rose stitch, and then move the needle two squares up. There, work another rose stitch.

Leave 1 square remaining free to the right (to ensure that the square in between remains well defined and open, slide the working thread through a cable stitch on the back).

From there, work three rose stitches to the right. Over the middle of the three stitches, work a cross of one, three, and one rose stitches. The working thread is brought back to the square to the right of the center on the back.

From there, four rose stitches are worked to the right and then the needle is moved diagonally one square to the left and one square down.

There work a rose stitch and then move the needle up two squares. There work another rose stitch.

The first element of the pattern is finished.

An identical element is embroidered at intervals of three empty squares.

From the middle of the three remaining squares, leave one more square free and then embroider further elements to the left and right.

In this way fill the entire area.

An extraordinary pattern emerges,

which appears particularly effective in large areas, as here on a tablecloth from 1927.

Filling Pattern – No. 581

category: openwork filling pattern with Cable stitch grid
linen used: 13.5/cm thread count
threads used: coton à broder No. 30 for the Cable stitches and No. 20 for the Rose stitches
stitches used: Cable and Rose stitches
center: intersection of withdrawn thread lines (square)
one pattern segment: 34 threads

The filling pattern shown here is a practice exercise only. You can see it used in a shape at the end of this article.

First, establish an openwork grid with a square (an intersection of withdrawn thread lines) in the center by cutting 2, leaving 2 both vertically and horizontally.

Stabilize the established grid with Single Faggot stitches worked from the back side of the fabric. Please remember that Single Faggot stitch worked on the back side will look like Cable stitch viewed from the front.

Bring the needle up in the second square below the center. The end of the working thread remains on the front side for now.

Work a Rose stitch into this square. It’s a good idea to place the first part of the Rose stitch in the direction you want to continue stitching later—i.e., the first partial stitch upwards if you want to work additional Rose stitches above; the first partial stitch to the left if you want to work additional Rose stitches to the left, and so on. This ensures that the square’s area is well covered.

After completing the first Rose stitch, move the needle diagonally one square to the top right

and from there work three Rose stitches to the left.

In the square above the third Rose stitch and the one to the left of it, embroider two more Rose stitches, then emerge one square diagonally to the top right

and from there, work three Rose stitches to the right. After completing the third Rose stitch, emerge one square diagonally to the top left.

In this square work one Rose stitch and then move the needle diagonally one square to the right and two squares down.

From there, work two Rose stitches to the right and then move the needle one square up and two squares to the right.

To ensure that the surrounding squares remain well defined and open, the working thread is slided through a Cable stitch on the back.

The first element of the pattern is complete. From the new starting point, stitch Rose stitches diagonally to the top left.

four in total.

A second,

a third and

a fourth row of four Rose stitches each follows. This completes the second element of the pattern.

Move the needle diagonally one square to the right and two squares down and start embroidering the first element from there.

On the diagonal, element 1 and element 2 alternate constantly. If the first thread is too short and is secured, the starting thread can also be pulled to the back and secured there.

A very beautiful pattern is created,

which appears particularly effective in large areas, as here on a tablecloth from 1927.