Filling Pattern No. 573

category: Limet-Filling pattern
linen used: 13.5/cm thread-count
threads used: coton à broder No. 20
stitches used: bars of 6 Satin stitches over 1 square in the width and Four-Sided stitches
center = intersection of withdrawn-thread lines (in other shapes or motifs: longitudinal axis = withdrawn-thread line)
one pattern segment = 12 fabric threads

The filling pattern shown here is a practice exercise only.
First, work a Limet grid by alternately withdrawing 1 and leaving 3 threads both horizontally and vertically.
In the established Limet grid, work a grid of Satin stitches. Work, in a stair-step manner, Satin stitch bars over one square (3 threads) in the width and over 2 squares (6 stitches) in the length. In the center remains a square of 2 X 2 squares.

Work the Satin stitch grid over the entire shape.

Then, from the back of the fabric, work Four-Sided stitches in the remaining squares. Each side stitch bundles 6 fabric threads.

Secure the working thread very well and bring it up in the middle of a bottom edge of a 2 X 2 square.

It is important to choose the opposite side for starting the Four-Sided stitch to get the corner holes clean and open and the stitch centered.

*Start on the top of the square, inserting the needle in the top right hole and bringing it up in the top left hole.

Travel to the bottom, insert the needle in the bottom right hole and bring it up in the bottom left hole. With this stitch the thread can be tightened a little bit more to pull together the threads of the center square.

Insert the needle in the top right hole again, but bring it up in the bottom right hole.

Insert the needle in the top left hole and bring it up in the bottom left hole.* In this way and always tightening the working thread, a prominent center is established on the front.

But this stitch will turn out much more prominent, working the Four-Sided stitch twice. This also enables one to better tighten the working thread and so to establish a more even structure of the complete pattern. So repeat the four steps (*) once.

Then bring the working thread straight up to the next square.

From the front it looks like this:

Work one Four-Sided stitch two times in the established way in each section center of the Satin stitch grid.

After shrinking in the laundry the bundled fabric will look even more prominent.

Filling Pattern – No. 572

category: Limet-Filling pattern
linen used: 13.5/cm thread count
threads used: coton à broder No. 20
stitches used: half Rose stitches/half Rose stitch variation and Diagonal Cross stitches
center: intersecton of withdrawn thread lines
one pattern segment = 25 threads

The filling pattern shown here is a practice exercise only. You can see it used in a shape at the end of this article.

First, establish a Limet grid by alternately cutting 1, leaving 3, vertically and horizontally.

Bring needle up one square above the center,

*cross over 2 (!) fabric threads to the left, insert needle there and bring it up again in the first hole.

Cross over 3 fabric threads to top, insert needle there and bring it up again in the first hole.

Cross over 3 fabric threads to the right, insert needle there and bring it up again in the first hole.

Cross over 2 (!) fabric threads to bottom, insert needle there and bring it up again in the first hole.
The first half Rose stitch with a half Rose stitch variation has formed.

Cross over the last stitch, insert needle and bring it up one square diagonally up to the left.*

This is the center of the next half Rose stitch with a half Rose stitch variation. From here always repeat the steps (*)

until the end of the row.

Turn the work 180° and embroider a row next to it in the established way,

so that the four remaining threads form a square.

Without turning the work, embroider Diagonal Cross stitches from bottom to top and

back from top to bottom next to the Rose stitches. First on one side, then also

on the opposite side.

By constantly alternating double rows of half Rose stitches with half Rose stitch variations and Diagonal Cross stitches, a diagonal striped pattern is formed.

I discovered this pattern in Fumie Suzuki’s contribution to the Global Schwalm Sampler.

Here it was worked on 16 tpc linen.

Filling Pattern – No. 571

category: Limet-Filling pattern
linen used: 13.5/cm thread count
threads used: coton à broder No. 20
stitches used: Cross stitches
center axises: four thread columns
one pattern segment = 5 threads

The filling pattern shown here is a practice exercise only. You can see it used in a shape at the end of this article.

First, establish a Limet grid by alternately cutting 1, leaving 4, vertically and horizontally.

Bring needle up at the bottom of a square between the third and fourth threads from the right,

crosses the square upwards and pick up the two middle fabric threads there.

Always repeat this step up to the top of the row.

Once there, don’t turn the work, but

embroider downwards in the same way. Rectangular crosses are formed.

Further rows are embroidered in the established way next to it, always starting with the stitches leading upwards and

with the downward leading finishing the rows.

This way embroider row by row

until the entire area is filled.

Now turn the work by 90° and embroider crossing stitches in the established way

first again from bottom to top,

then from top to bottom.

This creates double crosses

that seem very prominent.

I discovered this filling pattern on the Schwalm tablecloth from “brubi”.

Here it was embroidered on 16/cm thread count linen.

Filling Pattern – No. 570

category: Limet-Filling pattern
linen used: 13.5/cm thread count
threads used: coton à broder No. 20
stitches used: Satin and Honeycomb Darning stitches
center: longitudinal axis = withdrawn thread line
one pattern segment = 18 threads

An unusual stripe pattern requires an uneven thread withdrawing.

The filling pattern shown here is a practice exercise only. You can see it used in a shape at the end of this article.

Withdraw the thread along the central longitudinal axis. Starting from there, leave 4 threads on each side, withdraw one and from there alternately 2 x every fourth thread and 2 x every fifth thread.

Vertically withdraw every fourth thread.

Beginning on the left of the middle, embroider Satin stitches over 2, 3, 4, 5, 4, 3 threads (see picture) and repeat this stitch sequence continuously. It’s a good idea to say the sequence of numbers as you embroider so you don’t get confused.

When you reach the end of the row, turn the work and embroider the same sequence of stitches one square up. One fabric thread remains between the stitches of the first and second row.

Leave 2 x 3 fabric thread groups free and work over the 2 x 4 fabric thread groups Satin stitches in the established way .

You can – as seen in the picture – start all left sides of the double rows with the same stitch sequence, but you could also start one square up – then the left and right sides of opposite double rows run in mirror image. This results in a slightly different appearance of the pattern.

When all double rows over the groups of four threads have been completed, work Honeycomb Darning stitches in the remaining areas – see picture.

In this way, a striking stripe pattern is achieved, which only unfolds its full effect after shrinking in the laundry.

If you want to make the double rows a bit wider and thus even more striking, you have to leave 5 fabric sthreads and work a stitch sequence of 3, 4, 5, 6, 5, and 4 – see picture.

You can change the number of rows of Honeycomb Darning stitches to achieve different patterns.

Also the size of the area in which the pattern is embroidered,

and the fineness of the fabric matters.

Filling Pattern – No. 569

category: openwork filling pattern without Cable stitch grid
linen used: 13.5/cm thread count
threads used: coton à broder No. 20 for the Rose and the Satin stitches
stitches used: Rose and Satin stitches
center: intersection of withdrawn thread lines (square)
one pattern segment: 18 threads

The filling pattern shown here is a practice exercise only. Here you can see it used in a shape.
First, establish an openwork grid with a square (an intersection of withdrawn thread lines) in the center by cutting 2, leaving 2 both vertically and horizontally.

At a distance of one empty square below the center square, begin to embroider rose stitches in a diagonal row to the top left.

Turn the work and embroider a second row at a distance of three empty squares – counted in a horizontal row – parallel to the first.

Further parallel rows are embroidered at the same distance until the entire area is filled.

Then work a Rose stitch in the square to the right below the center square. Then bring the needle up in the center square.

Wrap the right pair of threads on the square from right to left,

three times in all.

After the third stitch, move the needle under the intersection of threads to the square above the center.

From there wrap the upper pair of threads of the center square from bottom to top, again a total of three times.

After the third stitch, move the needle under the intersection of threads to the next square diagonally to the top left.

From there work a Rose stitch again, starting with the stitch to the left.

In the established way alternately work one Rose stitch and 2 x 3 Satin stitches.

Turn the work 180° and embroider in the established way three Satin stitches over the remaining free vertical

and three Satin stitches over the remaining free horizontal thread pair.

After the third stitch, move the needle undercrossing the Rose stitch into the next empty square.

In this way work 2 x 3 Satin stitches over the remaining free pairs of threads until the row is filled.

The other remaining free rows are embroidered in the established way, making sure that the rose stitches of the adjacent rows are in one line.

(A similar, but slightly more nondescript, pattern can be achieved by working the Rose stitch grid into a Cable stitch grid. This saves the need for Satin stitches, but requires securing the entire grid with Cable stitches first. I’ve browsed through my vast collection of patterns to show you the difference. Unfortunately, not a single pattern worked in this way was included.)