Filling Pattern – No. 549

category: Limet-Filling pattern
linen used: 13.5/cm thread count
threads used: coton à broder No. 16
stitches used: Four-Sided stitches
center: square (in other shapes, longitudinal axis: group of three threads)
one pattern segment = 8 threads

Instructions for left-handers can be found at the end of this article.
First, establish a Limet grid with a square in the center by cutting 1, leaving 3 both vertically and horizontally.

Bring the needle up in bottom left hole of the center square, and pull the thread through.

Work a Four-Sided stitch around the center square with the first stitch on the bottom from left to right.

The second stitch is taken on the top from left to right. With this stitch the thread can be tightened a little bit more. The tension of the Four-Sided stitch should be tight enough to pull together the fabric threads of the center square.

The third stitch is taken on the left and up.

And the fourth stitch is worked on the right and up.
Rows of Four-Sided stitches, with a distance of one square between, are always worked from top to bottom.
So bring the needle up in the bottom left hole of the next square to be outlined with a Four-Sided stitch – it is three squares down and one square to the left of the last insertion point.

Work a Four-Sided stitch in the established way.

On the back double crosses are made in the places of the Four-Sided stitches. Later, when ironing, these will pad the sections of the Four-Sided stitches.

Reaching the end of a row, and before starting the next row, the working thread has to be slid – on the back side – under the last stitch to keep the hole well defined and open.

Turn the piece 180° and work the next row staggered one square beside the first row.

Always take care to keep the holes well defined and open.

An unobtrusive pattern for smaller shapes is established. At first it looks a little bit tedious.

But illuminated from behind, the delicate structure is clearly visible.

After boiling and ironing the pattern appearance will change.


Instructions for the left-hander:

Bring the needle up in bottom right hole of the center square, and pull the thread through.

Work a Four-Sided stitch around the center square with the first stitch on the bottom from right to left.

The second stitch is taken on the top from right to left. With this stitch the thread can be tightened a little bit more. The tension of the Four-Sided stitch should be tight enough to pull together the fabric threads of the center square.

The third stitch is taken on the right and up.

And the fourth stitch is worked on the left and up.
Rows of Four-Sided stitches, with a distance of one square between, are always worked from top to bottom.
So bring the needle up in bottom right hole of the next square to be outlined with a Four-Sided stitch – it is three squares down and one square to the right of the last insertion point.

Work a Four-Sided stitch in the established way.

On the back double crosses are made in the places of the Four-Sided stitches. Later, when ironing, these will pad the sections of the Four-Sided stitches.

Reaching the end of a row, and before starting the next row, the working thread has to be slid – on the back side – under the last stitch to keep the hole well defined and open.

Turn the piece 180° and work the next row staggered one square beside the first row.

Always take care to keep the holes well defined and open.

Filling Pattern – No. 548

category: Limet-Filling pattern
linen used: 13.5/cm thread count
threads used: coton à broder No. 20
stitches used: Easy Eyelet stitches and Satin stitches
longitudinal axis: group of three threads
one pattern segment = 20 threads

First, establish a Limet grid with a group of three threads as the longitudinal axis by cutting 1, leaving 3, vertically and horizontally.

Work two rows of Easy Eyelet stitches along the longitudinal axis – one on each side of the three-thread group.

Work two rows of Satin stitches next to one side of the Easy Eyelet rows.

Always alternate working two rows of Easy Eyelet stitches and two rows of Satin stitches until one half of the shape is filled. Working from the already embroidered section, fill the remaining section.

Another straight striped pattern is established.

Filling Pattern – No. 547

category: openwork filling pattern with Cable stitch grid
linen used: 13.5/cm thread count
threads used: coton à broder No. 30 for the Cable stitches and No. 20 for the Rose stitches
stitches used: Rose stitches
center: intersection of pairs of threads
one pattern segment: 28 threads

First, establish an openwork grid with an intersection of pairs of threads in the center by cutting 2, leaving 2 both vertically and horizontally.

Stabilize the established grid with Single Faggot stitches worked from the back side of the fabric. Please remember that Single Faggot stitch worked on the back side will look like Cable stitch viewed from the front.

Work a square of 2 X 2 Rose stitches around the center intersection – counterclockwise and starting on the bottom right. After completing the square of Rose stitches, bring the needle up in the square diagonal to the lower left corner.

From there work a diagonal row of Rose stitches upward to the left.

Turn the piece and work a second diagonal row parallel and with a distance of five empty squares between – counted in a straight line.

Complete the first row, and work rows of Rose stitches perpendicular to the first and running directly along the corners of the center square.

Crossing previously worked rows, slide the working thread on the back through the already established stitches.

Work a second row beside and outward to the first.

Do the same to all four rows.

*Work two single rows with a distance of five empty squares between (counted in a straight line) to the right and to the left of one pair of the established rows.

Please note: my sampler square will get an edge border of Satin stitches. Of course, this edge border should normally be worked first – before withdrawing the threads. In this way, the edge border can be worked much more easily, and the working threads of the Single Faggot stitches can be secured there. I was pressed for time when working the steps in preparation to share them with you, and in my haste I skipped this important step. The picture at the end of this article shows the sample with the border. It was very difficult to get the stitches to look nice and orderly! So, please do not follow my example, but take the time to stitch an edge border first.

Start working a single row perpendicular to the just worked row, but this time include working squares of 2 X 2 Rose stitches into the established rhombus sections. Therefore bring the needle up in the square diagonal to the top left

and work a square of 2 X 2 Rose stitches.

On the way back to the Rose stitch row, slide the working thread through the already established stitches.

Continue working the Rose stitch row including a square of 2 X 2 Rose stitches in every second rhombus section.

Do the same on the opposite side.

Work a second row of Rose stitches beside and outward to each of the four rows.*

Continue working the same steps (*)

until the entire shape is filled.

This pattern is especially charming in wider motifs. This motif was embroidered by Sylvia Sellmaier. Thanks to her for allowing to show her work.

Filling Pattern – No. 546

category: Limet-Filling pattern
linen used: 13.5/cm thread count
threads used: coton à broder No. 20
stitches used: Easy Eyelet stitches and Rose stitches
longitudinal axis: withdrawn thread line
one pattern segment = 16 threads

First, establish a Limet grid with a withdrawn thread line as the longitudinal axis by cutting 1, leaving 3, vertically and horizontally.

Work one row of Easy Eyelet stitches along the longitudinal axis.

Work one vertical row of Rose stitches next to the Easy Eyelet row.

Always alternate working one row of Easy Eyelet stitches and Rose stitches until one half of the shape is filled.

Working from the already embroidered section, fill the remaining section.

Another pattern, suited also for smaller areas, is established.

An Easy Eyelet Stitch

Looking at the stitches of Schwalm whitework embroideries, I discovered a new (to me) stitch. It is yet again another example of Schwalm embroiderers’ ingenuity. I immediately set out to try it; in this article, I will share the results of my efforts with you.

The stitch is worked on a Limet grid – cut 1, leave 3. Similar to the Rose stitch, it is a stitch worked in four steps originating from a center. But this stitch is not worked with Blanket stitches; it is worked with Satin stitches. In addition, it is worked counterclockwise instead of clockwise. I did not find a name for this stitch, so I will call it Easy Eyelet stitch.

Instructions for left-handers can be found at the end of this article.

Bring the needle up one square from the bottom (center).

*Cross over one square down, insert the needle and bring it up again in the center hole.

Cross over one square to the right, insert the needle and bring it up again in the center hole. Tighten thread.

Cross over one square up, insert the needle and bring it up again in the center hole. Tighten thread.

Cross over one square to the left, insert the needle and bring it up in the next center hole – one square diagonally right up.*

Start working the steps (*) again. The first step of this stitch shares the same space as the third step of the previously worked stitch. (The threads will lie closely next to each other in the same space.)

The rows are worked from bottom to top. Each hole of the longitudinal axis is a center of a stitch. Tighten the thread so that a distinct hole is made.

Nice open center holes are established.
One row of this stitch can be combined with rows of other stitches – for example Satin stitch bars – to create beautiful striped patterns.
If you want to work a second row, turn the piece 180° and work a second row beside the first.

When working side-by-side rows of this stitch, the working thread will naturally share spaces occupied by previously worked stitches. In these cases, the stitches will lie closely next to each other in the same space.

Two rows of this stitch can be combined with rows of other stitches – for example Satin stitch bars – to create a pattern.
But more rows should not be used. Working row beside row to fill an entire shape establishes the same pattern as Double Crosses – in straight rows/wrong side up (Openwork Pattern Samplers), and this pattern – for filling an entire shape – can be worked much more quickly.

But worked from the back side, the Easy Eyelet stitch can establish a nice pattern for small areas.

The stitches lying alternately straight and at a slant give a unique effect.

Instructions for the left-hander:

*Cross over one square down, insert the needle and bring it up again in the center hole.

Cross over one square to the left, insert the needle and bring it up again in the center hole. Tighten thread.

Cross over one square up, insert the needle and bring it up again in the center hole. Tighten thread.

Cross over one square to the right, insert the needle and bring it up in the next center hole – one square diagonally left up.*

Start working the steps (*) again. The first step of this stitch shares the same space as the third step of the previously worked stitch. (The stitches will lie closely next to each other in the same space.)

The rows are worked from bottom to top. Each hole of the longitudinal axis is a center of a stitch. Tighten thread.

One row of this stitch can be combined with rows of other stitches – for example Satin stitch bars – to create beautiful striped patterns.
If you want to work a second row, turn the piece 180° and work a second row beside the first.