filling patterns

Filling Pattern – No. 547

category: openwork filling pattern with Cable stitch grid
linen used: 13.5/cm thread count
threads used: coton à broder No. 30 for the Cable stitches and No. 20 for the Rose stitches
stitches used: Rose stitches
center: intersection of pairs of threads
one pattern segment: 28 threads

First, establish an openwork grid with an intersection of pairs of threads in the center by cutting 2, leaving 2 both vertically and horizontally.

Stabilize the established grid with Single Faggot stitches worked from the back side of the fabric. Please remember that Single Faggot stitch worked on the back side will look like Cable stitch viewed from the front.

Work a square of 2 X 2 Rose stitches around the center intersection – counterclockwise and starting on the bottom right. After completing the square of Rose stitches, bring the needle up in the square diagonal to the lower left corner.

From there work a diagonal row of Rose stitches upward to the left.

Turn the piece and work a second diagonal row parallel and with a distance of five empty squares between – counted in a straight line.

Complete the first row, and work rows of Rose stitches perpendicular to the first and running directly along the corners of the center square.

Crossing previously worked rows, slide the working thread on the back through the already established stitches.

Work a second row beside and outward to the first.

Do the same to all four rows.

*Work two single rows with a distance of five empty squares between (counted in a straight line) to the right and to the left of one pair of the established rows.

Please note: my sampler square will get an edge border of Satin stitches. Of course, this edge border should normally be worked first – before withdrawing the threads. In this way, the edge border can be worked much more easily, and the working threads of the Single Faggot stitches can be secured there. I was pressed for time when working the steps in preparation to share them with you, and in my haste I skipped this important step. The picture at the end of this article shows the sample with the border. It was very difficult to get the stitches to look nice and orderly! So, please do not follow my example, but take the time to stitch an edge border first.

Start working a single row perpendicular to the just worked row, but this time include working squares of 2 X 2 Rose stitches into the established rhombus sections. Therefore bring the needle up in the square diagonal to the top left

and work a square of 2 X 2 Rose stitches.

On the way back to the Rose stitch row, slide the working thread through the already established stitches.

Continue working the Rose stitch row including a square of 2 X 2 Rose stitches in every second rhombus section.

Do the same on the opposite side.

Work a second row of Rose stitches beside and outward to each of the four rows.*

Continue working the same steps (*)

until the entire shape is filled.

This pattern is especially charming in wider motifs. This motif was embroidered by Sylvia Sellmaier. Thanks to her for allowing to show her work.

Filling Pattern – No. 546

category: Limet-Filling pattern
linen used: 13.5/cm thread count
threads used: coton à broder No. 20
stitches used: Easy Eyelet stitches and Rose stitches
longitudinal axis: withdrawn thread line
one pattern segment = 16 threads

First, establish a Limet grid with a withdrawn thread line as the longitudinal axis by cutting 1, leaving 3, vertically and horizontally.

Work one row of Easy Eyelet stitches along the longitudinal axis.

Work one vertical row of Rose stitches next to the Easy Eyelet row.

Always alternate working one row of Easy Eyelet stitches and Rose stitches until one half of the shape is filled.

Working from the already embroidered section, fill the remaining section.

Another pattern, suited also for smaller areas, is established.

An Easy Eyelet Stitch

Looking at the stitches of Schwalm whitework embroideries, I discovered a new (to me) stitch. It is yet again another example of Schwalm embroiderers’ ingenuity. I immediately set out to try it; in this article, I will share the results of my efforts with you.

The stitch is worked on a Limet grid – cut 1, leave 3. Similar to the Rose stitch, it is a stitch worked in four steps originating from a center. But this stitch is not worked with Blanket stitches; it is worked with Satin stitches. In addition, it is worked counterclockwise instead of clockwise. I did not find a name for this stitch, so I will call it Easy Eyelet stitch.

Instructions for left-handers can be found at the end of this article.

Bring the needle up one square from the bottom (center).

*Cross over one square down, insert the needle and bring it up again in the center hole.

Cross over one square to the right, insert the needle and bring it up again in the center hole. Tighten thread.

Cross over one square up, insert the needle and bring it up again in the center hole. Tighten thread.

Cross over one square to the left, insert the needle and bring it up in the next center hole – one square diagonally right up.*

Start working the steps (*) again. The first step of this stitch shares the same space as the third step of the previously worked stitch. (The threads will lie closely next to each other in the same space.)

The rows are worked from bottom to top. Each hole of the longitudinal axis is a center of a stitch. Tighten the thread so that a distinct hole is made.

Nice open center holes are established.
One row of this stitch can be combined with rows of other stitches – for example Satin stitch bars – to create beautiful striped patterns.
If you want to work a second row, turn the piece 180° and work a second row beside the first.

When working side-by-side rows of this stitch, the working thread will naturally share spaces occupied by previously worked stitches. In these cases, the stitches will lie closely next to each other in the same space.

Two rows of this stitch can be combined with rows of other stitches – for example Satin stitch bars – to create a pattern.
But more rows should not be used. Working row beside row to fill an entire shape establishes the same pattern as Double Crosses – in straight rows/wrong side up (Openwork Pattern Samplers), and this pattern – for filling an entire shape – can be worked much more quickly.

But worked from the back side, the Easy Eyelet stitch can establish a nice pattern for small areas.

The stitches lying alternately straight and at a slant give a unique effect.

Instructions for the left-hander:

*Cross over one square down, insert the needle and bring it up again in the center hole.

Cross over one square to the left, insert the needle and bring it up again in the center hole. Tighten thread.

Cross over one square up, insert the needle and bring it up again in the center hole. Tighten thread.

Cross over one square to the right, insert the needle and bring it up in the next center hole – one square diagonally left up.*

Start working the steps (*) again. The first step of this stitch shares the same space as the third step of the previously worked stitch. (The stitches will lie closely next to each other in the same space.)

The rows are worked from bottom to top. Each hole of the longitudinal axis is a center of a stitch. Tighten thread.

One row of this stitch can be combined with rows of other stitches – for example Satin stitch bars – to create beautiful striped patterns.
If you want to work a second row, turn the piece 180° and work a second row beside the first.

Filling Pattern – No. 545

category: Limet-Filling pattern
stitches used: nine-stitch sections of the simple Square Eyelet, Four-Sided, and Rose
center: square (in other shapes, longitudinal axis: group of three threads)
one pattern segment = 24 threads

used here: linen with 13.5/cm threads and coton à broder No. 25 for the small shirt buttons and No. 20 for the Rose stitches

Instructions for left-handers can be found at the end of this article.

First, establish a Limet grid with a square in the center by cutting 1, leaving 3 both vertically and horizontally.

Work one small shirt button around the center square. After completing the Four-Sided stitch, bring the needle up in the next center – three squares (nine fabric threads) up and four squares (twelve fabric threads) to the right. The travelling working thread on the back is covered later by subsequent stitches.

From there work a second small shirt button. Continue working small shirt buttons in the established way.

Work small shirt buttons over the entire shape.

Start working a square of 4 X 4 Rose stitches one square (three fabric threads) up from the top right corner of a small shirt button.

Work four Rose stitches in a straight row up,

three more Rose stitches each across the top of the square to the left, down the left side, and along the bottom to the right. From the last Rose stitch start working a Four-Sided stitch in the center.

Work the first stitch on top from left to right,

the second stitch on bottom from left to right;

the third stitch is taken on the left downward from the top.

And the fourth stitch is taken on the right downward from the top.

From there bring the needle up in the next center of a Rose stitch – one square (three fabric threads) up from the top right corner of the small shirt button to the left. Work Rose stitch squares with Four-Sided stitches in the centers in the established way until the entire shape is filled.

This nice pattern can also be worked in shapes on the bias,

as seen here in the tulip shape.

But remember that the Limet grid is prepared differently for shapes positioned on the bias. Please refer to this article

and then continue in the established way.

Instructions for the left-hander:

Work one small shirt button around the center square. After completing the fourth Four-Sided stitch, bring the needle up in the next center – three squares (nine fabric threads) up and four squares (twelve fabric threads) to the left. The travelling working thread in the back is covered later by subsequent stitches.

From there work a second small shirt button. Continue working small shirt buttons in the established way.
Work small shirt buttons over the entire shape.

Start working a square of 4 X 4 Rose stitches one square (three fabric threads) up from the top left corner of a small shirt button.

Work four Rose stitches in a straight row up,

three more Rose stitches each across the top of the square to the right, down the right side, and along the bottom to the left. From the last Rose stitch start working a Four-Sided stitch in the center.

Work the first stitch on top from right to left,

the second stitch on bottom from right to left;

the third stitch is taken on the right downward from the top.

And the fourth stitch on the left downward from the top.

From there bring the needle up in the next center of a Rose stitch – one square (three fabric threads) up from the top left corner of the small shirt button to the right. Work Rose stitch squares with Four-Sided stitches in the centers in the established way until the entire shape is filled.

Filling Pattern – No. 544

Filling Pattern – No. 544

category: Limet-Filling pattern
stitches used: nine-stitch sections of the simple Square Eyelet and Four-Sided stitches
center: square (in other shapes, longitudinal axis: group of three threads)
one pattern segment = 12 threads
name: small shirt button

used here: linen with 13.5/cm threads and coton à broder No. 25

New: Instructions for left-handers can be found at the end of this article.

First, establish a Limet grid with a square in the center by cutting 1, leaving 3 both vertically and horizontally.

Bring the needle up in bottom left hole of the center square (point where the needle emerges = center of the nine-stitch section), and pull the thread through.

Turn the piece 180°, cross over three threads to the right and one thread down, insert the needle and bring it up in the center again. Tighten thread.

From the center (of the nine-stitch section) work four more stitches moving one fabric thread up with each stitch.

Rotate the piece 90° clockwise and continue stitching around the corner – working four stitches upward.

After the ninth stitch, take the needle to the back and bring it up in the center of the next nine-stitch section – the next counterclockwise corner hole of the center square.

Work the next nine-stitch section in the established way.

From the last stitch of the fourth nine-stitch section, bring the needle up in the bottom right hole of the center square. It is important to choose the opposite side for starting the Four-Sided stitch to get the corner holes clean and open and the stitch centered.

Work a Four-Sided stitch around the center square with the first stitch on the right and straight up;

the second stitch is taken on the left and up. With this stitch the thread can be tightened a little bit more. In contrast to the Satin stitch sections, where the thread is only tightened so that the stitches lie flat, the thread of the Four-Sided stitch can be tightened a little bit more to pull together the threads of the center square.

Work the third stitch on the bottom from right to left,

and the fourth on the top from right to left.

From there bring the needle up in the next center, one square (three fabric threads) down and three squares (nine fabric threads) to the right.
Please make sure to secure your working thread through the backs of stitches when travelling to the new starting point.

From the next center work a small shirt button in the established way beside the first.

Continue working small shirt buttons

to fill the entire shape.

Pattern No. 451 is a combined pattern using small shirt button as one element.

Instructions for the left-hander:

Bring the needle up in bottom right hole of the center square (point where the needle emerges = center of the nine-stitch section), and pull the thread through.

Turn the piece 180°, cross over three threads to the left and one thread down, insert the needle and bring it up in the center again. Tighten thread.

From the center (of the nine-stitch section) work four more stitches moving one fabric thread up with each stitch.

Rotate the piece 90° counterclockwise and continue stitching around the corner – work four stitches upward.

After the ninth stitch, take the needle to the back and bring it up in the center of the next nine-stitch section – the next clockwise corner hole of the center square.

Work the next nine-stitch section in the established way.

From the last stitch of the fourth nine-stitch section, bring the needle up in the bottom left hole of the center square. It is important to choose the opposite side for starting with the Four-Sided stitch to get the corner holes clean and open and the stitch centered.

Work a Four-Sided stitch around the center square with the first stitch on the left and straight up;

the second stitch is taken on the right and up. With this stitch the thread can be tightened a little bit more. In contrast to the Satin stitch sections, where the thread is only tightened so that the stitches lie flat, the thread of the Four-Sided stitch can be tightened a little bit more to pull together the threads of the center square.

Work the third stitch on the bottom from left to right,

and the fourth on the top from left to right.

From there bring the needle up in the next center, one square (three fabric threads) down and three squares (nine fabric threads) to the left.
Please make sure to secure your working thread through the backs of stitches when travelling to the new starting point.

From the next center work a small shirt button in the established way beside the first.

Work one small shirt button beside the next, and continue working small shirt buttons

to fill the entire shape.

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Luzine Happel
Am Schindeleich 43
37269 Eschwege
Deutschland
Telefon: 05651-32233
Website: www.luzine-happel.de
E-Mail: leuchtbergverlag@aol.com

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