filling patterns Archive - Page 10 of 16

Filling Pattern – No. 543

By Luzine Happel on 25. January 2019 / blog, filling patterns, Limet pattern / Leave a comment

category: Limet-Filling pattern
stitches used: Rose stitches
longitudinal axis: withdrawn thread line
one pattern segment = 16 threads
straight striped pattern

New: At the end of this article are instructions for left-handers.

First, establish a Limet grid with a withdrawn thread line as the longitudinal axis by cutting 1, leaving 3, vertically and horizontally.

Bring the needle up in the hole that is one up from the bottom hole on the longitudinal axis (point where the needle emerges = center of the stitch), and pull the thread through.

Work a Rose stitch. That means: Loop the thread up and to the left, cross over one square (three threads) to the left, insert the needle and bring it up in the center again. Tighten thread.

Loop the thread to the right and up, cross over one square (three threads) up, insert the needle and bring it up in the center hole again. Notice that the looped thread is beneath the needle. Tighten thread.

Loop the thread to the bottom and right, cross over one square (three threads) to the right, insert the needle and bring it up in the center again with the thread beneath the needle. Tighten thread.

Loop the thread to the left and down, cross over one square at the bottom, insert the needle and bring it up in the center again with the looped thread beneath the needle. Tighten thread.

After working the fourth stitch, the working thread comes up to the right of the fourth stitch. Cross over the fourth stitch to the left and insert the needle at the bottom of the center hole.
Bring the needle up in the next center, two squares (six threads) up. (Each second hole of the longitudinal axis is a center of a Rose stitch.)

Start working with the first step of the Rose stitch again.

In this way, one by one, the Rose stitch is worked in a straight row.

The next row is worked staggered one square. So, after inserting the needle at the bottom of the last center hole, bring the needle up in the next center, one square (three threads) up and two squares (six threads) to the left. (Each second hole of this vertical withdrawn-thread line is a center of a Rose stitch.) Turn the piece 180° and work Rose stitches in the established way.

Always alternate working both rows until the entire shape is filled.

Boiled, starched, and ironed this pattern develops a nice soft, fine, and airy structure. The striped character is hardly noticeable.

Instructions for the left-hander:

Bring the needle up in the hole that is one up from the bottom hole on the longitudinal axis (point where the needle emerges = center of the stitch), and pull the thread through. Work a Rose stitch. That means: Loop the thread up and to the right, cross over one square (three threads) to the right, insert the needle and bring it up in the center again. Tighten thread.

Loop the thread to the left and up, cross over one square (three threads) up, insert the needle and bring it up in the center hole again. Notice that the looped thread is beneath the needle. Tighten thread.

Loop the thread to the bottom and left, cross over one square (three threads) to the left, insert the needle and bring it up in the center again with the thread beneath the needle. Tighten thread.

Loop the thread to the right and down, cross over one square at the bottom, insert the needle and bring it up in the center again with the looped thread beneath the needle. Tighten thread.

After working the fourth stitch, the working thread comes up to the left of the fourth stitch. Cross over the fourth stitch to the right and insert the needle at the bottom of the center hole.
Bring the needle up in the next center, two squares (six threads) up. (Each second hole of the longitudinal axis is a center of a Rose stitch.)

Start working with the first step of the Rose stitch again.

In this way, one by one, the Rose stitch is worked in a straight row.

The next row is worked staggered one square. So, after inserting the needle at the bottom of the last center hole, bring the needle up in the next center, one square (three threads) up and two squares (six threads) to the right. (Each second hole of this vertical withdrawn-thread thread line is a center of a Rose stitch.) Turn the piece 180° and work Rose stitches in the established way.

Always alternate working both rows until the entire shape is filled.

Filling Pattern No. 542

By Luzine Happel on 15. June 2018 / blog, filling patterns, Openwork pattern / Leave a comment

category: openwork filling pattern with Cable stitch grid
stitches used: Rose stitches
center: axis of intersections of pairs of threads; in other shapes – center: intersection of pairs of threads
As promised, here is the explanation for the counterpart of filling pattern 541.
Starting where the diagonal center axis crosses the perpendicular axis at the bottom point of the shape, leave two threads, and then commence making the grid by always alternating between withdrawing and leaving two vertical threads. Do the same with the horizontal threads.

The established grid is stabilized with Single Faggot stitches – which is simply Cable stitch when worked on the front – worked on the back side of the fabric.

Work a row of Rose stitches into the holes along the diagonal center axis.

Looking at the outside corners of the Rose stitch squares, leave 1 hole unworked, and continue working Rose stitch rows to both sides until the entire shape is filled.

Starting approximately in the middle, work perpendicular rows of Rose stitches to form rhombi of 2 X 2 Rose stitches

until the entire shape is filled.

In the image below, the piece has not been boiled. After shrinking during the boiling process, the pattern will get a nice appearance.

Coton à broder No. 30 was used for the Cable stitches and No. 20 for the Rose stitches. The linen has a 16/cm thread count.

Filling Pattern No. 541

By Luzine Happel on 11. May 2018 / blog, filling patterns, Openwork pattern / 2 Comments

category: openwork filling pattern without Cable stitch grid
stitches used: sections of Rose stitches and Four-Sided stitches
center: intersection of pairs of threads

As mentioned in my blog post Traditional Schwalm Whitework, I will now explain how to work a special pattern consisting of sections of Rose stitches and Four-Sided stitches in an openwork grid without Cable stitches. I first noticed such a pattern on a piece from 1804.

Starting at the center leave the two center threads, and then commence making the grid by always alternating between withdrawing and leaving two vertical threads. Do the same with the horizontal threads.

Bring the needle up in the hole at the bottom left of the center intersection (marked red).

Lay the thread in a loop to the top and left, insert the needle in the next hole to the left and bring it up again in the first hole. Pull the thread through.

*Cross over the working thread and under the upper pair of fabric threads, and bring the needle up in the next hole upward.

Again lay the thread in a loop to the top and left, insert the needle in the next hole to the left, and bring it up again in the previously used hole. Pull the thread through. The working thread is beneath the needle.

Lay a loop to the top right, insert the needle in the next hole upward, and bring it up again in the previously used hole.

Pull the thread through and turn the piece 90° counterclockwise*. Repeat the steps (*) until a square of 2 X 2 holes is filled with two sections of a Rose stitch each. The last stitch is worked in the bottom left hole of the square. From the last stitch, cross over the working thread

and insert the needle into the same hole.

On the back, slide the working thread under the former middle top stitch.

Looking at the next intersection above, bring the needle up in the top left hole to begin a Four-Sided stitch.

Cross over the pair of threads to the right, insert the needle, and bring it up diagonally in the bottom left hole.

Cross over the pair of threads to the right, insert the needle, and bring it up diagonally in the upper left hole.

Cross over the pair of threads downward, insert the needle, and bring it up diagonally in the upper right hole.

Cross over the pair of threads downward, insert the needle, and bring it up two holes up and one hole to the left. Start here with the next square of 2 X 2 holes to be filled with two sections of a Rose stitch each.

Work rows of alternating 2 X 2 squares and Four-Sided stitches.

Work the next row staggered.

Repeat the steps until the entire shape is filled.

For my first attempt, I used coton à broder No. 25, but it was too fine to fill the holes thoroughly. So, in the end I used coton à broder No. 16.

In the image above, the piece has not been boiled. After shrinking during the boiling process, the pattern will get a nice appearance with flat areas for the Rose-stitch-section squares and more prominent areas where the Four-Sided stitches are.

I will explain the counterpart – worked with the common pattern of Rose stitch squares in a Cable stitch grid – in a future article.

Playing with a Pattern

By Luzine Happel on 13. April 2018 / blog, filling patterns, Limet pattern, tips and tricks / 2 Comments

As already mentioned, I consider how to rearrange stitches so that a new pattern is created every time I stitch a pattern.
I take graph paper and lightly sketch my ideas to see the possibility of creating a new pattern.
This was my process while working on filling pattern No. 481.

First I made a variation of this pattern by establishing another Limet grid by cutting 1 and leaving only 2. This made the single pattern element narrower and the overall pattern smaller.

But also the distance between single pattern elements (or vertical rows of elements) can be adjusted

or hearts of different sizes can be combined.

Striped

or squared patterns can be created by combining the hearts with other stitches, such as Satin stitch bars shown here.

The single elements can be turned – to the left, to the right (here the stitches for the remaining sections are thus far missing, perhaps the diagonally worked Röserich [see Stars] would be fine)

or upside down.

Four hearts can be combined to form a blossom

The center can be filled in different ways:
a. with one Rose stitch

b. with a variation of four Rose stitches

c. or with four Rose stitches.

Such blossoms arranged closely together establish a nice pattern.

The same blossoms can be worked in a Rose stitch grid.

The single hearts can also be turned with the points meeting in the center.

Here they are surrounded with Rose stitches.

As seen, with a little bit of imagination and some trial and error one can easily create new patterns.

In summary, the following are ways one can play with patterns:
changing the direction of single pattern elements
combining pattern elements with other stitches
using different grids
using different thread weights
filling blank spaces differently

Filling Pattern No. 540

By Luzine Happel on 16. March 2018 / blog, filling patterns, Limet pattern / 7 Comments

category: Limet-Filling pattern
stitches used: Lazy Daisy and Rose stitches
center: intersection of withdrawn thread lines (in other shapes or motifs: longitudinal axis = withdrawn thread line)

The last filling pattern on my blog was number 481.
Since then I published the Star book that contains 58 different star filling patterns.
So the next filling pattern on my blog is number 540.

First, establish a Limet grid by cutting 1, leaving 3, vertically and horizontally.

Bring the needle up in the center hole and pull the thread through.

Lay the thread in a loop to the left and down.
Insert the needle again in the center hole and bring it up 1 square diagonally left down (3 threads down and 3 threads to the left).

Lay the loop beneath the needle.

Pull the thread through and tighten it a little bit drawing it in the direction of the loop. Be careful to not tighten too much – the loop should keep its hoof shape.

Cross over 1 square diagonally left down, insert the needle and bring it back up through the center hole.

Work 3 more Lazy Daisy stitches counterclockwise

in the established way.

When one round (one element) is complete, continue to work the row of elements by crossing diagonally under 2 squares to bring the needle up in the next center.