Filling Pattern – No. 554

Filling Pattern – No. 554

category: Limet-Filling pattern
linen used: 13.5/cm thread count
threads used: coton à broder No. 20
stitches used: Rose and diagonal Four-Sided stitches
center: intersection of withdrawn thread lines (in other shapes or motifs: longitudinal axis = withdrawn thread line)
one pattern segment = 16 threads

While embroidering the filling pattern No. 553, I got the idea to create a similar pattern in a narrower Rose stitch grid.
This allows one to work the pattern in one step – alternating rows of Rose stitches with rows of alternating diagonal Four-Sided and Rose stitches. The pattern begins with a diagonal Four-Sided stitch.

The filling pattern shown here is a practice exercise only. You can see it used in a shape at the end of this article.

First, establish a Limet grid with an intersection of withdrawn thread lines as center by alternately cutting 1, leaving 3, vertically and horizontally.

Mark the center point. Bring the needle up in the next hole left of the center. From there start to work a Four-Sided stitch in a diagonal row – as a rhombus around the center point.

Therefore, *travel one square diagonally right up, insert the needle and bring it up again two squares downward.

Travel one square diagonally right up, insert the needle and bring it up again two squares to the left.

Travel one square diagonally right down, insert the needle and bring it up again two squares upward.

Travel one square diagonally right down, insert the needle* and bring it up again two squares to the left.

In this way and always tightening the working thread, a prominent stitch sequence is established.

But this stitch will turn out much more prominent, working the Four-Sided stitch twice. This also enables one to better tighten the working thread and so to establish a more even structure of the complete pattern. So repeat the four steps (*) once.

After the eighth stitch, insert the needle and bring it up one square up and two squares to the left to work up from there a Rose stitch.

Please note that the centers of the alternating diagonal Four-Sided and Rose stitches lie along a diagonal line.

So, finish the Rose stitch by inserting the needle in the center hole and bring it up two squares to the left and one square up. From there start to work the next double diagonal Four-Sided stitch as established (*).

Always alternate working Rose stitches and double diagonal Four-Sided stitches up to the end of the row.

Then work a row of Rose stitches beside.

Always alternate working these two rows. Make sure, that you always turn the work so that the rows are oriented from bottom right to top left.

So that the holes keep well defined and open, please make sure to catch all the working threads on the back with the stitches

If the entire shape is filled, a nice pattern is created.

Unboiled the contrast of prominent and flat areas is visible.

After boiling and ironing the pattern develops its full charm.

I think it will become one of my favorite filling patterns for medium sized shapes.

Filling Pattern – No. 553

Filling Pattern – No. 553

category: Limet-Filling pattern
linen used: 13.5/cm thread count
threads used: coton à broder No. 20 for the Rose and No. 16 for the Four-Sided stitches
stitches used: Rose and Four-Sided stitches
center: intersection of withdrawn thread lines (in other shapes or motifs: longitudinal axis = withdrawn thread line)
one pattern segment = 24 threads

The filling pattern shown here is a practice exercise only. You can see it used in a shape at the end of this article.

First, establish a Limet grid with an intersection of withdrawn thread lines as center by alternately cutting 1, leaving 3, vertically and horizontally.

Mark around the center point a square of 2 X 2 squares. Bring the needle up in the next hole left of the bottom left corner. This is the center of the first Rose stitch.

Work Rose stitches in a diagonal row.

Work a second row of Rose stitches parallel to the first and at a distance of 2 empty holes (counted in a diagonal line from one Rose stitch center of the first row to a Rose stitch center of the second row).

Do the same in the crossing direction.

Up from there lay a grid of Rose stitch rows across the entire shape in the established way. Each area of the grid has a remaining section of 2 X 2 squares around the respective center hole, which now should be covered with Four-Sided stitches.

Because the working thread has to be slid under previously worked stitches to travel from one stitch to the next, it is easier to work the stitches from the back.

Secure the working thread very well and bring it up at an intersection of two Rose stitch rows.
It is important to choose the opposite side for starting the Four-Sided stitch to get the corner holes clean and open and the stitch centered.

*Start on the top of the center square, inserting the needle in the top right hole and bringing it up in the top left hole.

Travel to the bottom, insert the needle in the bottom right hole and bring it up in the bottom left hole. With this stitch the thread can be tightened a little bit more to pull together the threads of the center square.

Insert the needle in the top right hole again, but bring it up in the bottom right hole.

Insert the needle in the top left hole and bring it up in the bottom left hole.* In this way and always tightening the working thread, a prominent center is established on the front.

But this stitch will turn out much more prominent, working the Four-Sided stitch twice. This also enables one to better tighten the working thread and so to establish a more even structure of the complete pattern. So repeat the four steps (*) once.

Then, traveling straight up to the next center square, slide the working thread through the cross that has been made with the Four-Sided stitches and then through the stitches of the right three-thread column.

Work one Four-Sided stitch two times in the established way in each section center of the Rose stitch grid.

I discovered this stitch in the contribution of Ekaterina Khokhlova to the Global Schwalm Sampler.

Filling Pattern – No. 552

Filling Pattern – No. 552

category: Limet-Filling pattern
linen used: 13.5/cm thread count
threads used: coton à broder No. 20
stitches used: Satin and Rose stitches
center: intersection of withdrawn thread lines (in other shapes or motifs longitudinal axis = withdrawn thread line)
one pattern segment: 20 fabric threads

This pattern for larger motifs can be used for shapes both on the straight of grain and shapes on the bias.

The filling pattern shown here is a practice exercise only. You can see it used in a shape at the end of this article.

First, establish a Limet grid with an intersection of withdrawn thread lines at the center by alternately cutting 1, leaving 3, vertically and horizontally.

Mark around the center point by working Satin stitch bars around an area of 4 X 4 squares (the center point situated directly in center).

Continue working Satin stitch bars over one square (3 threads) in the width and 4 squares (12 stitches) in the length in a stair-step manner

until the entire shape is filled.

Work squares consisting of 8 Rose stitches in straight rows inside each Satin stitch grid area.

Ensure that the center holes are kept well defined and open.

Continue working squares of 8 Rose stitches until the entire shape is filled.

Remember that the Limet grid is prepared differently for shapes positioned on the bias. Please refer to this article.

and then continue in the established way.

Filling Pattern – No. 551

category: Limet-Filling pattern
linen used: 13.5/cm thread count
threads used: coton à broder No. 16
stitches used: Honeycomb Darning stitches
center: square (in other shapes, longitudinal axis: group of three threads)
one pattern segment: 12 threads

This pattern is a variation of Honeycomb Darning stitches – not worked in rows but around a center square.

Instructions for left-handers can be found at the end of this article.

First, establish a Limet grid with a square in the center by cutting 1, leaving 3 both vertically and horizontally.

Bring the needle up one square below the lower right hole of the center square, and pull the thread through.

*Cross over one square (3 fabric threads) to the right, insert the needle and bring it up in the previous hole again. Tighten the thread.

Cross over one square (3 fabric threads) up, insert the needle and bring it back up 1 square to the left.

Cross over those 3 threads to the right, insert the needle and bring it up in the previous hole again.

From now on always tighten the thread so that the bundled threads are pulled together a little bit.

Cross over one square below, insert the needle and bring it up 1 square (3 fabric threads) to the left.

Cross over those 3 threads to the right, insert the needle and bring it up one square diagonally left and up.*

Turn the piece 90° counterclockwise and repeat working the five steps (*),

three times in all. At this point, one pattern segment covering a section of 3 X 3 squares is finished.

More of these pattern segments are added to establish the entire pattern. To start the next segment, the needle has to emerge from the same point that it was inserted. So, on the back side, slide the working thread under the stitch

and then bring it up again to the front. Turn the piece to start working the next segment in the established way.

Work segment beside segment

until the entire shape is filled. If you get lost while working, simply recall which is the segment´s center square that needs to be surrounded.

This pattern develops its full appearance only after boiling, starching, and ironing.

Instructions for the left-hander:

Bring the needle up one square below the lower left hole of the center square, and pull the thread through.

*Cross over one square (3 fabric threads) to the left, insert the needle and bring it up in the previous hole again. Tighten the thread.

Cross over one square (3 fabric threads) up, insert the needle and bring it back up 1 square to the right.

Cross over those 3 threads to the left, insert the needle and bring it up in the previous hole again.

From now on always tighten the thread so that the bundled threads are pulled together a little bit.

Cross over one square below, insert the needle and bring it up 1 square (3 fabric threads) to the right.

Cross over those 3 threads to the left, insert the needle and bring it up one square diagonally right and up.*

Turn the piece 90° clockwise and repeat working the five steps (*),

three times in all. At this point, one pattern segment covering a section of 3 X 3 squares is finished.

Filling Pattern – No. 550

category: Limet-Filling pattern
linen used: 13.5/cm thread count
threads used: coton à broder No. 20
stitches used: Rose and Single Faggot stitches
center: intersection of withdrawn thread lines (in other shapes, longitudinal axis: withdrawn thread line)
one pattern segment = 24 threads

This is an old traditional Schwalm pattern that is often used for embroidering motifs. One can find examples of the pattern and of variations of the pattern (the huge number of examples show that it was very popular) here:
A Framed Schwalm Sampler (bird 2)
Contemporary Schwalm Wall Hangings (wing of one bird)
Traditional Schwalm Door Hangings (some circles)
Schwalm Whitework Sampler Cloths (one flower)
Traditional Schwalm Whitework (in different motifs)
Transition from Early to Later Schwalm Whitework (1) (the next to last tulip in the list of enlargements)
Schwalm Parade Cushion Border (A) (some hearts and leaves)
Traditional Schwalm Bodice (D) Embroidery (heart)
Traditional Schwalm Bodice (B) Embroidery (circle)
The Filling Patterns of the Traditional Schwalm Bodice A (different motifs)
Schwalm Designs – Knife Points (1) (big circle, heart)
Schwalm Designs (3) – Scallops (2) (birds)

Commonly it is worked as an openwork-filling pattern.
As a Limet-filling pattern it is also found here:
Pretty Contemporary Schwalm Table Cloth (small circle)

Here I show it as a Limet-filling pattern.

First, establish a Limet grid with a withdrawn thread line as the longitudinal axis by cutting 1, leaving 3, vertically and horizontally.

Work two diagonal rows of Rose stitches adjoining the center intersection of withdrawn thread lines.

Then, from the back side of the fabric, work a row of Single Faggot stitches beside one of the Rose stitch rows. Please remember that Single Faggot stitch worked on the back side will look like Cable stitch viewed from the front.

Work a second row of Single Faggot stitches beside the first.

Turn the piece over again and work a Rose stitch row.

Always alternate working pairs of Rose stitch rows and pairs of Single Faggot stitch rows

until the entire shape is filled.

After boiling the wavy structure will be clearly visible.

This pattern has a tendency to pull out of grain. Ironing can remedy this slight distortion of the grain.