blog

Filling Pattern – No. 544

Filling Pattern – No. 544

category: Limet-Filling pattern
stitches used: nine-stitch sections of the simple Square Eyelet and Four-Sided stitches
center: square (in other shapes, longitudinal axis: group of three threads)
one pattern segment = 12 threads
name: small shirt button

used here: linen with 13.5/cm threads and coton à broder No. 25

New: Instructions for left-handers can be found at the end of this article.

First, establish a Limet grid with a square in the center by cutting 1, leaving 3 both vertically and horizontally.

Bring the needle up in bottom left hole of the center square (point where the needle emerges = center of the nine-stitch section), and pull the thread through.

Turn the piece 180°, cross over three threads to the right and one thread down, insert the needle and bring it up in the center again. Tighten thread.

From the center (of the nine-stitch section) work four more stitches moving one fabric thread up with each stitch.

Rotate the piece 90° clockwise and continue stitching around the corner – working four stitches upward.

After the ninth stitch, take the needle to the back and bring it up in the center of the next nine-stitch section – the next counterclockwise corner hole of the center square.

Work the next nine-stitch section in the established way.

From the last stitch of the fourth nine-stitch section, bring the needle up in the bottom right hole of the center square. It is important to choose the opposite side for starting the Four-Sided stitch to get the corner holes clean and open and the stitch centered.

Work a Four-Sided stitch around the center square with the first stitch on the right and straight up;

the second stitch is taken on the left and up. With this stitch the thread can be tightened a little bit more. In contrast to the Satin stitch sections, where the thread is only tightened so that the stitches lie flat, the thread of the Four-Sided stitch can be tightened a little bit more to pull together the threads of the center square.

Work the third stitch on the bottom from right to left,

and the fourth on the top from right to left.

From there bring the needle up in the next center, one square (three fabric threads) down and three squares (nine fabric threads) to the right.
Please make sure to secure your working thread through the backs of stitches when travelling to the new starting point.

From the next center work a small shirt button in the established way beside the first.

Continue working small shirt buttons

to fill the entire shape.

Pattern No. 451 is a combined pattern using small shirt button as one element.

Instructions for the left-hander:

Bring the needle up in bottom right hole of the center square (point where the needle emerges = center of the nine-stitch section), and pull the thread through.

Turn the piece 180°, cross over three threads to the left and one thread down, insert the needle and bring it up in the center again. Tighten thread.

From the center (of the nine-stitch section) work four more stitches moving one fabric thread up with each stitch.

Rotate the piece 90° counterclockwise and continue stitching around the corner – work four stitches upward.

After the ninth stitch, take the needle to the back and bring it up in the center of the next nine-stitch section – the next clockwise corner hole of the center square.

Work the next nine-stitch section in the established way.

From the last stitch of the fourth nine-stitch section, bring the needle up in the bottom left hole of the center square. It is important to choose the opposite side for starting with the Four-Sided stitch to get the corner holes clean and open and the stitch centered.

Work a Four-Sided stitch around the center square with the first stitch on the left and straight up;

the second stitch is taken on the right and up. With this stitch the thread can be tightened a little bit more. In contrast to the Satin stitch sections, where the thread is only tightened so that the stitches lie flat, the thread of the Four-Sided stitch can be tightened a little bit more to pull together the threads of the center square.

Work the third stitch on the bottom from left to right,

and the fourth on the top from left to right.

From there bring the needle up in the next center, one square (three fabric threads) down and three squares (nine fabric threads) to the left.
Please make sure to secure your working thread through the backs of stitches when travelling to the new starting point.

From the next center work a small shirt button in the established way beside the first.

Work one small shirt button beside the next, and continue working small shirt buttons

to fill the entire shape.

Pillow with a Heart Design

For this year´s Valentine´s Day I present a very special pillowcase. The big heart is filled with an openwork figural pattern.

Figural patterns are a common part of Schwalm whitework filling patterns. You will learn more about this special type of filling pattern in future articles this year.

This pattern is very special because it conforms to the heart shape. The heart outline has to be established first. Unfortunately, the linen used for the example is not an evenweave; it has a thread count of 17/18 in the height and 13/14 in the width.

But how does one get it the correct size for the design? There are three different possibilities.

1. The easiest way is to adjust the design matching it to the openwork grid of the inner heart after it is established.

2. The second way is to count the threads to determine the size of the needed section:
The design measures 50 squares along the vertical center axis from the top point to the lower point of the heart and 40 squares along half the horizontal axis directly below the top point of the heart. One square needs 4 fabric threads; this means you have to count from the top point of the heart downwards 200 threads and from the top point to the left or to the right 160 threads. I recommend adding 8 threads each time you count out a section just to be safe. Mark all three points and measure the distance. Adjust your heart design to be the required size, and transfer it to the linen.

3. The third way is calculating:
Count your linen threads precisely and calculate the needed measurement. For example, for a linen with a thread count of 13.5/cm, you need 200 (208) threads in the height – 200 ÷ 13.5 = 14.81 cm (208 ÷ 13.5 = 15.41 cm). So, the inside of the heart shape should measure about 15.5 cm from the top point to the bottom point.
You need 160 (168) threads for half of the width – 160 ÷ 13.5 = 11.85 cm (168 ÷ 13.5 = 12.44 cm). So inside of the heart shape from the top point to one side should measure about 12.5 cm.

Because I think evenweave linen with a thread count of 13.5 is well-suited for openwork, I added the required size for this linen in the pdf document, which also includes a chart of the design.

First, all prep work is done: transferring; working stems, tendrils, and the pair of outlines with Coral Knot stitches; embroidering leaves, scallops, and half-eyelet scallops with Blanket stitches; working interlaced Herringbone stitches between the two outlines; and stitching Chain stitches inside the inner outline.

The openwork grid is established by cutting 2, leaving 2 – starting directly below the top point of the heart.

Now the grid needs to be secured. In the example, the grid is secured with Single Faggot stitches (Openwork Pattern Samplers). (Commonly openwork grids in Schwalm whitework are made with Cable stitches, but Single Faggot stitches make the pattern appear more clearly, and this is important for such a pattern.)
It is good to have a hoop wide enough for stretching the entire pattern into it.

Using needle-weaving stitches – in the example all the needle weaving is done vertically (i.e., from bottom to top and back again) – and occasional Rose stitches, embroider the pattern into the grid following the provided chart or your adjusted chart.

Finished as a pillowcase and filled with a coloured inlay, the pillow develops a special charm.

How to Establish a Limet Grid (2)

The first lesson on how to establish a Limet grid dealt with the basic knowledge needed for working Limet patterns on the straight of grain with an intersection of withdrawn-thread lines in the center or a withdrawn-thread line as the center axis. Now I will present the second installment of Limet grid basic knowledge.

As already mentioned, a pattern embellishment in a symmetrical shape will look perfect only if it is symmetrically arranged. In addition, different patterns need different grid preparation.

Below are the instructions for Limet grids needed for patterns on the straight of grain with a square in the center or a group of three threads as the center axis.

Circles, ovals, and squares are point symmetric; they need a square at their centers from which the pattern can radiate in all directions.

Tulips, hearts, and some other shapes are axially symmetric; they need a group of three threads as the center axis from which the pattern can be established on both sides.

For both shape types, the center vertical thread and the two adjacent threads remain, and the next threads (1 to the left and 1 to the right) are withdrawn first.

In point-symmetric shapes, the center horizontal thread and the two adjacent threads remain, and the next threads (1 above and 1 below) are now withdrawn to establish the center square.

For axially-symmetric shapes there are some decisions to make before commencing to withdraw the horizontal threads; it depends on how a pattern should be arranged. Usually it can begin with the fourth thread from the bottom.

In some shapes, where the pattern should match the top outline, it begins with the fourth thread from the top of a shape.

In shapes with deep interior points (e.g., hearts and some tulips), it is good to begin withdrawing the horizontal threads directly below the interior point,

or directly above the bottom interior point.

From the three just established withdrawn-thread lines (vertical and horizontal), the Limet grid is established by alternately leaving 3 (or sometimes 4) and cutting 1.

Below is a list of filling patterns (previously featured on this blog) that need this type of Limet grid.
No. 473
No. 472
No. 451
No. 449

Filling Pattern – No. 543

category: Limet-Filling pattern
stitches used: Rose stitches
longitudinal axis: withdrawn thread line
one pattern segment = 16 threads
straight striped pattern

New: At the end of this article are instructions for left-handers.

First, establish a Limet grid with a withdrawn thread line as the longitudinal axis by cutting 1, leaving 3, vertically and horizontally.

Bring the needle up in the hole that is one up from the bottom hole on the longitudinal axis (point where the needle emerges = center of the stitch), and pull the thread through.

Work a Rose stitch. That means: Loop the thread up and to the left, cross over one square (three threads) to the left, insert the needle and bring it up in the center again. Tighten thread.

Loop the thread to the right and up, cross over one square (three threads) up, insert the needle and bring it up in the center hole again. Notice that the looped thread is beneath the needle. Tighten thread.

Loop the thread to the bottom and right, cross over one square (three threads) to the right, insert the needle and bring it up in the center again with the thread beneath the needle. Tighten thread.

Loop the thread to the left and down, cross over one square at the bottom, insert the needle and bring it up in the center again with the looped thread beneath the needle. Tighten thread.

After working the fourth stitch, the working thread comes up to the right of the fourth stitch. Cross over the fourth stitch to the left and insert the needle at the bottom of the center hole.
Bring the needle up in the next center, two squares (six threads) up. (Each second hole of the longitudinal axis is a center of a Rose stitch.)

Start working with the first step of the Rose stitch again.

In this way, one by one, the Rose stitch is worked in a straight row.

The next row is worked staggered one square. So, after inserting the needle at the bottom of the last center hole, bring the needle up in the next center, one square (three threads) up and two squares (six threads) to the left. (Each second hole of this vertical withdrawn-thread line is a center of a Rose stitch.) Turn the piece 180° and work Rose stitches in the established way.

Always alternate working both rows until the entire shape is filled.

Boiled, starched, and ironed this pattern develops a nice soft, fine, and airy structure. The striped character is hardly noticeable.

Instructions for the left-hander:

Bring the needle up in the hole that is one up from the bottom hole on the longitudinal axis (point where the needle emerges = center of the stitch), and pull the thread through. Work a Rose stitch. That means: Loop the thread up and to the right, cross over one square (three threads) to the right, insert the needle and bring it up in the center again. Tighten thread.

Loop the thread to the left and up, cross over one square (three threads) up, insert the needle and bring it up in the center hole again. Notice that the looped thread is beneath the needle. Tighten thread.

Loop the thread to the bottom and left, cross over one square (three threads) to the left, insert the needle and bring it up in the center again with the thread beneath the needle. Tighten thread.

Loop the thread to the right and down, cross over one square at the bottom, insert the needle and bring it up in the center again with the looped thread beneath the needle. Tighten thread.

After working the fourth stitch, the working thread comes up to the left of the fourth stitch. Cross over the fourth stitch to the right and insert the needle at the bottom of the center hole.
Bring the needle up in the next center, two squares (six threads) up. (Each second hole of the longitudinal axis is a center of a Rose stitch.)

Start working with the first step of the Rose stitch again.

In this way, one by one, the Rose stitch is worked in a straight row.

The next row is worked staggered one square. So, after inserting the needle at the bottom of the last center hole, bring the needle up in the next center, one square (three threads) up and two squares (six threads) to the right. (Each second hole of this vertical withdrawn-thread thread line is a center of a Rose stitch.) Turn the piece 180° and work Rose stitches in the established way.

Always alternate working both rows until the entire shape is filled.

How to Establish a Limet Grid (1)

Next months, some of my blog posts will feature filling patterns for Schwalm whitework. To eliminate the need to repeat information, I will first explain some basic knowledge.

A pattern embellishment in a symmetrical shape will look perfect only if it is symmetrically arranged. In addition, different patterns need different grid preparation.

Below are the instructions for Limet grids needed for patterns on the straight of grain with an intersection of withdrawn-thread lines in the center or a withdrawn-thread line as the center axis.

Circles, ovals, and squares are point symmetric; they need an intersection of withdrawn-thread lines at their centers from which the pattern can radiate in all directions.

Tulips, hearts, and some other shapes are axially symmetric; they need a withdrawn-thread line as the center axis from which the pattern can be established on both sides.

For both shape types, the center vertical thread is withdrawn first.

In point-symmetric shapes, the center horizontal thread is now withdrawn to establish the center intersection of withdrawn-thread lines.

For axially-symmetric shapes there are some decisions to make before commencing to withdraw the horizontal threads; it depends on how a pattern should be arranged. Usually it begins with the fourth thread from the bottom.

In some shapes, where the pattern should match the top outline, it begins with the fourth thread from the top of a shape.

In shapes with deep interior points (e.g., hearts and some tulips), it is good to begin withdrawing the horizontal threads directly below the interior point.

From the two just established withdrawn-thread lines (vertical and horizontal), the Limet grid is established by alternately leaving 3 (or sometimes 4) and cutting 1.

Below is a list of filling patterns (previously featured on this blog) that need this type of Limet grid.
No. 540
No. 480
No. 477
No. 476
No. 475
No. 474
No. 469
No. 450
No. 448
No. 447
No. 444

Contact

Luzine Happel
Am Schindeleich 43
37269 Eschwege
Deutschland
Telefon: 05651-32233
Website: www.luzine-happel.de
E-Mail: leuchtbergverlag@aol.com

Donation

Donation
To change the language on the donation page, click the word beside the flag or the flag at the bottom of the page.

Language:

Luzine Happel - Logo

By continuing to use the site, you agree to the use of cookies. more Infos

Die Cookie-Einstellungen auf dieser Website sind auf "Cookies zulassen" eingestellt, um das beste Surferlebnis zu ermöglichen. Wenn du diese Website ohne Änderung der Cookie-Einstellungen verwendest oder auf "Akzeptieren" klickst, erklärst du sich damit einverstanden.

Schließen