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Lesson #3 – Openwork Circle Design Ornaments

Of the three types of withdrawn-thread patterns (simple, Limet, and openwork) in Schwalm whitework, openwork is the most important and richly diverse group. This is because shapes can not only be filled with endless patterns but also with figured patterns. The variety of figured patterns is vast – in addition to hearts, tulips and stars, birds and manikin are found. However, one can also find other animals and crowns. The Schwalm embroiderer loved diversification and liked to combine all the different possibilities.


Openwork patterns are especially durable because the embroiderer usually embroidered the shape twice – once for securing the grid with Cable stitches and again when working a pattern using Rose or needle-weaving stitches into the established grid. Learning to embroider openwork patterns is a little bit more arduous. But having learned the basic principles, countless and very different creative possibilities are opened up.

linienförmige Anordnung | arrangement in a straight line
The Ornament project is a continuation of the Happel Hearts project. It provides the opportunity to practice Coral Knot, Chain, and Blanket stitches that you learned in lesson #1, and it introduces new techniques and challenges:

1. Design transfer of a circle design
2. Thread withdrawal for an openwork grid with a square in the center
3. Working a Cable stitch grid
4. Openwork filling stitch: needle weaving
5. Working from a filling pattern chart
6. Openwork filling stitch: Rose stitch
7. Finishing
8. Thread withdrawal for an openwork grid with an intersection of bundled threads in the center

In addition, you will
• create your own different edge embellishment in basic star pattern charts,
• create your own star pattern chart,
• study more different pattern charts,
• study more embroidered star patterns.


The main focus of this lesson is to introduce Schwalm whitework’s third type of withdrawn-thread patterns – openwork patterns. (Simple withdrawn-thread filling patterns and Limet-Filling patterns have already been covered in lesson #1 and in lesson #2 respectively.)


In this lesson you have to establish an openwork grid, stabilize it with Cable stitches, and fill it with different figured patterns using needle weaving and Rose stitches. In the end, excess fabric is cut away.

Other finishing possibilities are square ornaments, coasters, and bands.


The project is small, but there is so much to learn!
Everything you need is included in the kit #1. Did you order it already?
To save you shipping costs, I made this document downloadable. Of course, a printed version is available upon request; should you prefer this option, please email me.

Schwalm Whitework
Lesson #3
Openwork Circle Design Ornaments
31 pages
more than100 images
text: English
21.95 MB file size
item price: € 20 (including 19 % sales tax), 16,81 € for customers outside the EU

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A Visit from Japan

Some time ago two ladies from Japan visited my exhibition and took a workshop with me. The interest in learning Schwalm whitework grows considerably in Japan. Kazuyo Narukawa and Sumiyo, her daughter, own an embroidery shop in Kanagawa. Because they have a large group of interested persons at home, they wanted to learn more about Schwalm whitework; their goal is to impart to their students the most authentic and accurate techniques and information as possible.


They both were very skilled in embroidery and learned a lot. We did not have language problems because we could communicate by using English. Any remaining confusion could be removed by practical instructions. They had lots of different questions regarding Schwalm whitework. They had prepared themselves ideally for the workshop. They wanted to know why I describe methods of working differently from some other authors, why I prefer using Weddigen linen #160 and #925, and why some stitches have other names in the English books written by other authors. I was able to answer all questions and to support my answers with examples.


They enjoyed seeing so many different exhibits. They could view many different design ideas. They took home not only my books but also a great deal of knowledge. Now they are well prepared to share it all with their customers.


In their shop, Stitch Garden, they offer the full range of supplies for Schwalm whitework. My books are also available there!

Kit #2B

This kit provides all the needed materials for lesson #2 Tulip Wreath, for the project worked with 13.5 per cm thread-count linen.

The kit includes all of the following:
• linen – 13.5/cm thread count Weddigen linen about 60 cm X 60 cm with the pre-transferred design
• linen – 13.5/cm thread count Weddigen linen about 20 cm X 20 cm for practicing
• Coton à broder No 16 – 1 skein, No. 20 – 2 skeins, and No. 30 – 3 skeins
• Chenille needle No. 24
• Chenille needle No. 26
• Tapestry needle No. 26
• washing powder

Kit #2B
13.5/cm thread count linen with the pre-transferred design
needles
threads
item price: € 34.00 (including 19% sales tax), 28.57 € for customers outside the EU
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Kit #2A

This kit provides all the needed materials for lesson #2 Tulip Wreath, for the project worked with 16 per cm thread-count linen.


The kit includes all of the following:
• linen – 16/cm thread count Weddigen linen about 45 cm X 45 cm with the pre-transferred design
• linen – 16/cm thread count Weddigen linen about 20 cm X 20 cm for practicing
• Coton à broder No 20, and 25 – 1 skein each, and No. 30 – 2 skeins
• Chenille needle No. 26
• Tapestry needle No. 26
• washing powder


Kit #2A
16/cm thread count linen with the pre-transferred design
needles
threads
item price: € 25 (including 19% sales tax), 21.01 € for customers outside the EU
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Lesson #2 – Tulip Wreath

The Tulip Wreath project is a little more ambitious than the lesson #1 projects – the Happel Hearts.

It provides the opportunity to practice Coral Knot and Chain stitches that you learned in lesson #1, and it introduces new techniques and challenges:

1. *Working on a finer linen (16 threads per cm)
2. *Working with a pre-transferred design
3. Tendrils and forks using Coral Knot stitches
4. Small leaves and small flowers using Satin stitches
5. Thread withdrawal for a Limet grid on the straight of grain

6. Thread withdrawal for a Limet grid on the bias
7. Eight different Limet-Filling patterns

8. Hemming with the Peahole hem
9. *Laundering a pre-transferred design

The most widely used linen for Schwalm whitework is linen with 16 threads per cm (Weddigen article 925). In lesson #1 you used the linen I recommend for beginners, linen with a lower thread count – 13.5 threads per cm (Weddigen article 160).

One of the goals of lesson #2 is to learn how to embroider on the finer linen. But in the proofing tests some of the ladies found it difficult to use this linen, so the lesson was redesigned. Now the same design and the same steps can be worked optionally on either the 16 threads per cm or the 13.5 threads per cm linen. As previously mentioned, the kit for lesson #1 also includes a small sample piece of linen with 16 threads per cm; it is included so that one can determine whether or not they are comfortable using this finer linen. The result is the same tulip wreath, but the size of the finer linen cloth is smaller.

There is also an add-on option for lesson #2: pre-cut linen with the design already transferred. A benefit of pre-transferred designs is that one can start embroidering at once – without doing the laborious task of transferring the design first. Also the colour of pre-transferred designs is very durable. It will not fade while working, which can happen when using iron transfer in larger designs. However, pre-transferred designs will need more work (soaking, boiling, and rubbing several times) to remove the colour after the embroidery is completed. But in the end it does disappear; I can attest to this since I have embroidered many such pre-transferred designs.

For people who do not want linen with the design pre-transferred, the design is included in two different sizes in the booklet. Please note that design transfer is not a subject covered in this lesson.

For the project worked with 16 per cm thread-count linen you will need:
linen (blank or with pre-transferred design) cut to about 45 cm X 45 cm
a small linen sample for practicing
coton à broder No. 20 – 1 skein; No. 25 – 1 skein, and No. 30 – 2 skeins
Chenille needle No. 26
Tapestry needle No. 26

All these items are included in kit #2A.

For the project worked with 13.5 per cm thread-count linen you will need:
linen (blank or with pre-transferred design) cut to at least 55 cm X 55 cm
a small linen sample for practicing
coton à broder No. 16 – 1 skein; No. 20 – 2 skein; and No. 30 – 3 skeins
Chenille needle No. 24
Chenille needle No. 26
Tapestry needle No. 26

All these items are included in kit #2B


Schwalm Whitework
Lesson #2
Tulip Wreath
82 pages
more than 250 images
text: English
plastic comb binding
item price: € 25 (including 7% sales tax), 23.36 € for customers outside the EU
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Contact

Luzine Happel
Am Schindeleich 43
37269 Eschwege
Deutschland
Telefon: 05651-32233
Website: www.luzine-happel.de
E-Mail: leuchtbergverlag@aol.com

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