Filling Pattern – No. 564

A word on my own behalf:
As you will surely have noticed, I have lost my English editor. Thank you Joey for years of professional support and great cooperation. Now I have to manage on my own. Nevertheless, I really hope that my texts are somewhat understandable.

Filling Pattern – No. 564

category: Limet-Filling pattern
linen used: 13.5/cm thread count
threads used: coton à broder No. 20
stitches used: Rose and Cable stitches
center: intersection of withdrawn thread lines (in other shapes or motifs: longitudinal axis = withdrawn thread line)
one pattern segment = 48 threads

In Schwalm whitework, it is common to embroider opposite or diagonally opposite motifs with the same filling pattern. However, experienced embroiderers, who have a very large treasure trove of patterns at their disposal, also like to use different but similar filling patterns.

The two following photos show two opposite corners of a tablecloth. One main tulip was decorated with Filling Pattern No. 563,

the opposite one with filling pattern No. 564 shown in the following. This pattern is similar, but with a segment width of 48 fabric threads a little more spacious.

Further examples for the different arrangement of the same or similar filling patterns can be found here:
Variety of Schwalm Whitework
Pretty Contemporary Schwalm Table Cloth
A Framed Schwalm Sampler (images 3 and 4)
Transition from Early to Later Schwalm Whitework (1) (image 1)
Early Schwalm Whitework – A Gorgeous Table Runner (image 1)
Traditional Schwalm Bodice (B) (image 1)

But now to the pattern itself.
The filling pattern shown here is a practice exercise only. You can see it used in a shape at the end of this article.
First, establish a Limet grid with an intersection of withdrawn thread lines as center by alternately cutting 1, leaving 3, vertically and horizontally.

Bring needle up 1 square above the center and work a Rose stitch from there. Three more Rose stitches, each equally spaced, are worked around the center point.

After completing the fourth Rose stitch, the needle remains on the back.

The work is turned. From the last Rose stitch, cross 1 square to the right, insert

and rotate the work 45° clockwise.

The next stitches are embroidered from the back.
Now work 20 Cable stitches around the Rose stitches – five on each side. To do this, you cross 1 square diagonally to the left and bring needle up.

From the emerging point, move the needle diagonally to the top right, insert in the next hole and bring it up in the next one to the left. It is important that you also catch the working thread that runs from one stitch to the next. Always take care to keep the holes between the stitches well defined and open. As a result, the pattern appears clear and sharply defined in the end.

From the emerging point, move the needle diagonally to the bottom right, insert in the next hole and bring it up in the next one to the left.

From the emerging point, move the needle diagonally to the top right, insert in the next hole and bring it up in the next one to the left.

From the emerging point, move the needle diagonally to the bottom right, insert in the next hole and bring it up in the next one to the left.

The 5 Cable stitches of the first side are finished. The three remaining sides are processed in a similar way. However, since you have to insert directly at the last emerging point, the working thread must be passed under the existing stitches (the thread that runs from the penultimate to the last Cable stitch and a leg of a Rose stitch) so that the holes remain open.

You can then return to the last emerging point and embroider 5 Cable stitches from there in the established way. It makes sense to turn the work so that you can move the needle always horizontally from right to left.

After completing the twentieth Cable stitch, the round is closed. From the emerging point, move the needle diagonally down to the right, insert the next hole there,

turn the work and continue embroidering on the front side again. The current emeriging point is the center of the first Rose stitch

A total of 16 Rose stitches are worked around the Cable stitch rhombus.

With the center section complete, it now makes sense to create the Rose stitch grid for the entire pattern.
From the center of the last Rose stitch, move the needle 1 square to the left, bring it up and from here work a diagonal row of Rose stitches to the edge. These stitches intertwine into the Rose stitches of the middle section.

Parallel to this and at a distance of 9 free holes – seen on a horizontal line – between the centers of the Rose stitches of both rows, another Rose stitch row is embroidered along the middle part.

Two further rows of Rose stitches are worked crosswise.

One further Rose stitch row is embroidered next to the existing ones outwards.

The grid is completed with double rows of Rose stitches across the entire shape.

The cross formations of the 4 Rose stitches in the middle are first embroidered in the remaining spaces, then the Cable stitches from the back and the remaining Rose stitches from the front again.

If all remaining spaces of the grid are filled, the following picture is presented:

I don’t think the Cable stitches are prominent enough.

So I worked two rounds of Cable stitches instead of one when filling the tulip motif.

After laundry, the contrast between the flat Rose stitches and the raised Cable stitches is clear.

Filling Pattern – No. 563

category: Limet-Filling pattern
linen used: 13.5/cm thread count
threads used: coton à broder No. 20
stitches used: Rose and diagonal Back stitches
center: intersection of withdrawn thread lines (in other shapes or motifs: longitudinal axis = withdrawn thread line)
one pattern segment = 40 threads

After many patterns for small and medium-sized areas, I will now present one for very large areas. A single pattern segment spans 10 squares – that’s 40 threads of fabric!

I came across the pattern years ago when I was visiting an exhibition.

Of course, I immediately tried to find out how it was worked. My pattern is slightly different.

The filling pattern shown here is a practice exercise only. You can see it used in a shape at the end of this article.

First, establish a Limet grid with an intersection of withdrawn thread lines as center by alternately cutting 1, leaving 3, vertically and horizontally.

First work one Rose stitch around the center. Then bring the needle up two squares below the center.
Now work 12 Back stitches diagonally across the squares around the Rose stitch. To clarify the run of the stitches, I have created an overview:

From the emerging point two squares below the center point, move 1 square diagonally to the top right, insert and bring the needle up 1 square to the left again. It is important that you catch the working thread that runs along the back. Always take care to keep the holes between the stitches well defined and open. As a result, the pattern appears clear and sharply defined in the end.

Again move the needle over 1 square diagonally to the top right, insert and bring it up again 2 squares to the left and 1 square down.

Move the needle over 1 square diagonally to the bottom right, insert and bring it up again 2 squares diagonally to the top left.

Rotate the work 90° counter-clockwise. From here you repeat the first three Back stitches by moving 1 square diagonally to the top right, insert and bring the needle up 1 square to the left again.

Again move the needle over 1 square diagonally to the top right, insert and bring it up again 2 squares to the left and 1 square down.

Move the needle over 1 square diagonally to the bottom right, insert and bring it up again 2 squares diagonally to the top left.

Again rotate the work 90° counter-clockwise. From here you repeat the first three Back stitches by moving 1 square diagonally to the top right, insert and bring the needle up 1 square to the left again.

Again move the needle over 1 square diagonally to the top right, insert and bring it up again 2 squares to the left and 1 square down.

Move the needle over 1 square diagonally to the bottom right, insert and bring it up again 2 squares diagonally to the top left.

Again rotate the work 90° counter-clockwise. From here you repeat the first three Back stitches by moving 1 square diagonally to the top right, insert and bring the needle up 1 square to the left again.

Again move the needle over 1 square diagonally to the top right, insert and bring it up again 2 squares to the left and 1 square down.

Move the needle over 1 square diagonally to the bottom right, insert and bring it up again 2 squares diagonally to the top left.

The round closes with the twelfth stitch. A criss-cross pattern of stitches has emerged around the Rose stitch. I don’t think this formation is prominent enough. So I repeat the twelve stitches.
From the stitch after the last Back stitch, the needle is moved 1 square to the left. There is the center of the first surrounding Rose stitch.

A total of 12 Rose stitches are worked around the cross.

With the center section complete, it now makes sense to create the Rose stitch grid for the entire pattern.

From the center of the last Rose stitch, move the needle up 1 square up, bring it up and turn the work 90° counter-clockwise. From here work a diagonal row of Rose stitches to the edge. These stitches intertwine into the Rose stitches of the middle section.

Parallel to this and at a distance of 7 free holes – seen on a horizontal line – between the centers of the Rose stitches of both rows, another Rose stitch row is embroidered along the middle part.

Two further rows of Rose stitches are worked crosswise.

One further Rose stitch row is embroidered outwards each existing one.

The grid is completed with double rows of rose stitches across the entire shape.

First, the cross formations with the Rose stitch centers are embroidered in the remaining spaces.

One could leave the Rose stitches surrounding the cross, but I embroidered them for completion.

The positions of the centers of the Rose stitches are shown in the graphic by red dots.

Embroidered it looks like this:

If all remaining spaces of the grid are filled, it looks like this:

One can only divine the contrast between the flat Rose stitches and the raised cross formations.

After laundry, it becomes clearer.

In the original it appears as its small rose flowers embedded in the rose stitch grid.

Filling Pattern – No. 554

Filling Pattern – No. 554

category: Limet-Filling pattern
linen used: 13.5/cm thread count
threads used: coton à broder No. 20
stitches used: Rose and diagonal Four-Sided stitches
center: intersection of withdrawn thread lines (in other shapes or motifs: longitudinal axis = withdrawn thread line)
one pattern segment = 16 threads

While embroidering the filling pattern No. 553, I got the idea to create a similar pattern in a narrower Rose stitch grid.
This allows one to work the pattern in one step – alternating rows of Rose stitches with rows of alternating diagonal Four-Sided and Rose stitches. The pattern begins with a diagonal Four-Sided stitch.

The filling pattern shown here is a practice exercise only. You can see it used in a shape at the end of this article.

First, establish a Limet grid with an intersection of withdrawn thread lines as center by alternately cutting 1, leaving 3, vertically and horizontally.

Mark the center point. Bring the needle up in the next hole left of the center. From there start to work a Four-Sided stitch in a diagonal row – as a rhombus around the center point.

Therefore, *travel one square diagonally right up, insert the needle and bring it up again two squares downward.

Travel one square diagonally right up, insert the needle and bring it up again two squares to the left.

Travel one square diagonally right down, insert the needle and bring it up again two squares upward.

Travel one square diagonally right down, insert the needle* and bring it up again two squares to the left.

In this way and always tightening the working thread, a prominent stitch sequence is established.

But this stitch will turn out much more prominent, working the Four-Sided stitch twice. This also enables one to better tighten the working thread and so to establish a more even structure of the complete pattern. So repeat the four steps (*) once.

After the eighth stitch, insert the needle and bring it up one square up and two squares to the left to work up from there a Rose stitch.

Please note that the centers of the alternating diagonal Four-Sided and Rose stitches lie along a diagonal line.

So, finish the Rose stitch by inserting the needle in the center hole and bring it up two squares to the left and one square up. From there start to work the next double diagonal Four-Sided stitch as established (*).

Always alternate working Rose stitches and double diagonal Four-Sided stitches up to the end of the row.

Then work a row of Rose stitches beside.

Always alternate working these two rows. Make sure, that you always turn the work so that the rows are oriented from bottom right to top left.

So that the holes keep well defined and open, please make sure to catch all the working threads on the back with the stitches

If the entire shape is filled, a nice pattern is created.

Unboiled the contrast of prominent and flat areas is visible.

After boiling and ironing the pattern develops its full charm.

I think it will become one of my favorite filling patterns for medium sized shapes.

Filling Pattern – No. 552

Filling Pattern – No. 552

category: Limet-Filling pattern
linen used: 13.5/cm thread count
threads used: coton à broder No. 20
stitches used: Satin and Rose stitches
center: intersection of withdrawn thread lines (in other shapes or motifs longitudinal axis = withdrawn thread line)
one pattern segment: 20 fabric threads

This pattern for larger motifs can be used for shapes both on the straight of grain and shapes on the bias.

The filling pattern shown here is a practice exercise only. You can see it used in a shape at the end of this article.

First, establish a Limet grid with an intersection of withdrawn thread lines at the center by alternately cutting 1, leaving 3, vertically and horizontally.

Mark around the center point by working Satin stitch bars around an area of 4 X 4 squares (the center point situated directly in center).

Continue working Satin stitch bars over one square (3 threads) in the width and 4 squares (12 stitches) in the length in a stair-step manner

until the entire shape is filled.

Work squares consisting of 8 Rose stitches in straight rows inside each Satin stitch grid area.

Ensure that the center holes are kept well defined and open.

Continue working squares of 8 Rose stitches until the entire shape is filled.

Remember that the Limet grid is prepared differently for shapes positioned on the bias. Please refer to this article.

and then continue in the established way.

Filling Pattern – No. 551

category: Limet-Filling pattern
linen used: 13.5/cm thread count
threads used: coton à broder No. 16
stitches used: Honeycomb Darning stitches
center: square (in other shapes, longitudinal axis: group of three threads)
one pattern segment: 12 threads

This pattern is a variation of Honeycomb Darning stitches – not worked in rows but around a center square.

Instructions for left-handers can be found at the end of this article.

First, establish a Limet grid with a square in the center by cutting 1, leaving 3 both vertically and horizontally.

Bring the needle up one square below the lower right hole of the center square, and pull the thread through.

*Cross over one square (3 fabric threads) to the right, insert the needle and bring it up in the previous hole again. Tighten the thread.

Cross over one square (3 fabric threads) up, insert the needle and bring it back up 1 square to the left.

Cross over those 3 threads to the right, insert the needle and bring it up in the previous hole again.

From now on always tighten the thread so that the bundled threads are pulled together a little bit.

Cross over one square below, insert the needle and bring it up 1 square (3 fabric threads) to the left.

Cross over those 3 threads to the right, insert the needle and bring it up one square diagonally left and up.*

Turn the piece 90° counterclockwise and repeat working the five steps (*),

three times in all. At this point, one pattern segment covering a section of 3 X 3 squares is finished.

More of these pattern segments are added to establish the entire pattern. To start the next segment, the needle has to emerge from the same point that it was inserted. So, on the back side, slide the working thread under the stitch

and then bring it up again to the front. Turn the piece to start working the next segment in the established way.

Work segment beside segment

until the entire shape is filled. If you get lost while working, simply recall which is the segment´s center square that needs to be surrounded.

This pattern develops its full appearance only after boiling, starching, and ironing.

Instructions for the left-hander:

Bring the needle up one square below the lower left hole of the center square, and pull the thread through.

*Cross over one square (3 fabric threads) to the left, insert the needle and bring it up in the previous hole again. Tighten the thread.

Cross over one square (3 fabric threads) up, insert the needle and bring it back up 1 square to the right.

Cross over those 3 threads to the left, insert the needle and bring it up in the previous hole again.

From now on always tighten the thread so that the bundled threads are pulled together a little bit.

Cross over one square below, insert the needle and bring it up 1 square (3 fabric threads) to the right.

Cross over those 3 threads to the left, insert the needle and bring it up one square diagonally right and up.*

Turn the piece 90° clockwise and repeat working the five steps (*),

three times in all. At this point, one pattern segment covering a section of 3 X 3 squares is finished.