new books

Needle-weaving hems and needle-weaving bands are an inherent part of Schwalm whitework. And the huge number of different possibilities makes this special type of embroidery varied and interesting.

In Schwalm Whitework Lesson #4 – Needle-Weaving Band Sampler, I described how to work the different pattern categories in great detail. I have now collected into a new publication a huge number of band patterns with short explanations. This publication will enable embroiderers to find the perfect pattern for their taste and purpose.

The featured needle-weaving band patterns were found on pieces worked within the last two hundred years – 193 different patterns in all.

To both show the course of larger patterns and also enable a size comparison, all patterns are shown over a section of about seventy-two bundles.

The patterns are arranged into these categories:

In addition, these patterns are also included:

In each of the categories, the patterns are arranged according to their number of units. To make it easier to find a special pattern, the number of bundles of a single pattern segment is also provided for each pattern. (Of course all the special terms are clarified.)

Some band patterns are easy to read, and others are more confusing. In an attempt to prevent errors from being made and to ease your work, I provide an additional service. For each band pattern, I have included the number of bundles for the individual bridges of the first unit; these are set in parentheses. Additionally, this pattern segment (the counted-out section) is marked with red lines at both ends.

Tips for creating both new patterns and different samplers round out this very special and precious publication.

Lesson #4 is a stand-alone unit that only requires some basic knowledge of embroidery. It deals with different needle-weaving band patterns. Needle-weaving hems or bands are, next to the Peahole hem, most important in Schwalm whitework; there are more than 200 different known patterns.

In needle-weaving bands fabric with a linen weave is transformed by withdrawing fabric threads in one direction and replacing them with embroidery threads that are woven in different patterns.

The lesson #4 booklet expands and improves, with very detailed descriptions, similar content found in my book Fancy Hems. The six on the front page shown band patterns are explained.

You will learn how to
• establish thread bundles,
• establish bridges,
• secure withdrawn thread ends,
• work units,
• change the width of bridges,
• read a diagram,
• remove extra bundles,
• increase the number of bundles, and
• work spiders.

In addition, you will learn how to work
• one-piece block patterns,
• A-patterns, and
• a two-piece block pattern with spiders.

The project in the booklet is worked on 14 threads/cm natural coloured linen from the Übelhör linen mill in Austria. One can use any evenweave (or nearly evenweave) linen that is densely woven with a thread count between 13.5/cm and 16/cm. Weddigen linen #160 with 13.5 threads/cm is well suited.
But if one wants to have the same linen to get the same result as shown in the booklet, a kit is available. Kit #4 contains all materials required to complete lesson #4.

The Tulip Wreath project is a little more ambitious than the lesson #1 projects – the Happel Hearts.

It provides the opportunity to practice Coral Knot and Chain stitches that you learned in lesson #1, and it introduces new techniques and challenges:

1. *Working on a finer linen (16 threads per cm)
2. *Working with a pre-transferred design
3. Tendrils and forks using Coral Knot stitches
4. Small leaves and small flowers using Satin stitches
5. Thread withdrawal for a Limet grid on the straight of grain

6. Thread withdrawal for a Limet grid on the bias
7. Eight different Limet-Filling patterns

8. Hemming with the Peahole hem
9. *Laundering a pre-transferred design

The most widely used linen for Schwalm whitework is linen with 16 threads per cm (Weddigen article 925). In lesson #1 you used the linen I recommend for beginners, linen with a lower thread count – 13.5 threads per cm (Weddigen article 160).

One of the goals of lesson #2 is to learn how to embroider on the finer linen. But in the proofing tests some of the ladies found it difficult to use this linen, so the lesson was redesigned. Now the same design and the same steps can be worked optionally on either the 16 threads per cm or the 13.5 threads per cm linen. As previously mentioned, the kit for lesson #1 also includes a small sample piece of linen with 16 threads per cm; it is included so that one can determine whether or not they are comfortable using this finer linen. The result is the same tulip wreath, but the size of the finer linen cloth is smaller.

There is also an add-on option for lesson #2: pre-cut linen with the design already transferred. A benefit of pre-transferred designs is that one can start embroidering at once – without doing the laborious task of transferring the design first. Also the colour of pre-transferred designs is very durable. It will not fade while working, which can happen when using iron transfer in larger designs. However, pre-transferred designs will need more work (soaking, boiling, and rubbing several times) to remove the colour after the embroidery is completed. But in the end it does disappear; I can attest to this since I have embroidered many such pre-transferred designs.

For people who do not want linen with the design pre-transferred, the design is included in two different sizes in the booklet. Please note that design transfer is not a subject covered in this lesson.

For the project worked with 16 per cm thread-count linen you will need:
linen (blank or with pre-transferred design) cut to about 45 cm X 45 cm
a small linen sample for practicing
coton à broder No. 20 – 1 skein; No. 25 – 1 skein, and No. 30 – 2 skeins
Chenille needle No. 26
Tapestry needle No. 26

All these items are included in kit #2A.

For the project worked with 13.5 per cm thread-count linen you will need:
linen (blank or with pre-transferred design) cut to at least 55 cm X 55 cm
a small linen sample for practicing
coton à broder No. 16 – 1 skein; No. 20 – 2 skein; and No. 30 – 3 skeins
Chenille needle No. 24
Chenille needle No. 26
Tapestry needle No. 26

All these items are included in kit #2B