Schwalm Curved Lines, Narrow Borders, and Ornamental Stitches

In Schwalm whitework wide motif bands are often bordered by narrow borders and ornamental stitches. These are usually inconspicuous, but upon closer examination they show great creative ingenuity and true embroidery art. This is reason enough to take a closer look at these elements of Schwalm needleart.

I had the privilege to meticulously examine many historical pieces – mostly bodices, but also parade cushions, aprons and others. The pieces of traditional Schwalm whitework at my disposal were mostly from the 19th century; the oldest piece was dated 1821. Viewing these historical Schwalm whitework embroideries, one can often find curved or zig-zag lines of decorations in various arrangements. Upon closer examination, nearly all the embroideries had motif bands that included such ornamental stitches or narrow borders, which can be divided into three distinct categories:

  • “Kerrercher” (called ‘small chain’ by Anneliese Spieß, and in Schwalm it is also known as “Schlängchen” [curved line]).
  • Motif borders
  • Herringbone stitches

And all three appear in a wide range of variations.

In my new publication

Schwalm
Curved Lines,
Narrow Borders,
and Ornamental Stitches


you will find a General Overview of these embellishments and an explanation of the significance of curved or zig-zag lines in Schwalm embroidery. You will also find more than 50 pictures of historical borders. A graphic artist re-created the designs, and many of these are represented in different sizes for your use.

In addition to the historical borders, contemporary borders, inspired by historical Schwalm embroidered crowns and caps, are also represented. In all there are 142 design drawings and 88 different motifs!

Also included are illustrated step-by-step instructions for working the different variations of curved lines and ornamental stitches.

49 pages 102 different possibilities 66.183 KB file size (3 different pdf-files in all) Text: English 25.00 EUR download here

49 pages
102 different possibilities
66.183 KB file size (3 different pdf-files in all)
Text: English

25.00 EUR

download here

Of course it is also possible to get this publication as a printed booklet for the same price (25.00 EUR) plus shipping charges. This option is not shown in my shop, so please email me with your request.

Exhibition Catalogue 2011

Exhibition Catalogue 2011 “The Art of Schwalm Whitework”

It happened that some of my English speaking customers got the German version of my exhibition catalogue 2011. They were so enthusiastic about it and gave me so much grateful feedback that I decided to translate the text from German to English. The catalogue document is not only a picture book, but it also contains descriptions of the exhibits — often including the measurements of the designs, valuable particulars and information, and where to find more detailed descriptions and instructions.

Up to now, I have not offered the catalogue in my online shop; with its 142 pages, it is not economical to ship. So I have decided to make the catalogue downloadable. Putting together the 297 excellent pictures and close-up photos was a lot of work, but I believe it has turned out to be a worthwhile document. (Please note that some of the pictures can also be found on my website or in my books.)

Now, after some months of preparatory work, it is finished and ready to present to you!

Perhaps one might think that downloading a document consisting of 6 different large files is a bit onerous. But consider this: you will be able to see 142 examples of traditional and brilliant contemporary Schwalm whitework in the comfort of your own home. Compare this to traveling to a foreign country and staying in strange environments, all which are not only expensive, but also very strenuous. The exhibition online catalogue is a trove of wonderful designs and information.

Don’t forget that having the document on your computer screen enables you to zoom in and to look carefully at each small detail!

Why not give yourself a Christmas gift? Only a few minutes for downloading will yield many hours comfortably looking through the pages and getting inspired!

The Art of Schwalm Whitework - Exhibition Catalogue 2011

The Art of Schwalm Whitework – Exhibition Catalogue 2011

  • documentation of the 2011 exhibition in Eschwege, Germany
  • Text: English
  • Pages: 142, many excellent pictures and close-up photos showing details

Consists mainly of Schwalm Whitework. One will find both extravagant historical pieces and elaborate contemporary projects. Included are examples of all types of Schwalm Whitework.
One can find Easter motifs and Christmas embroideries, as well as an elaborately worked Christening robe. Pattern samplers as well as modern whitework complete the collection.
Finally, each exhibit is described in detail.

For those who do not mind paying high shipping costs, and who prefer to have a printed version, I also offer the same document as a paper product.

Two titles that perfectly complement each other

Openwork Pattern Samplers
.
Openwork Needleweaving Patterns
Openwork Pattern Samplers
(Mustertücher „Lichte Muster“)
und
Openwork Needleweaving Patterns
(Lichte Muster „Stopfstiche“)

Now, finally, two more important books are available as English editions. One offers multifaceted variations for creating a sampler with Openwork patterns. The other contains an immense collection of such patterns ready for your needle and thread. With the two you can develop your totally individual and uniquely varied sampler.



Of course, each book stands alone as a precious treasure trove.

Openwork Pattern Samplers

Have you once tried to work a sampler? One starts with withdrawing threads and begins to embroider. Soon one notices that – in spite of very carefully planning – one overlooked an important fact. What to do now?

This book shows 7 different samplers with instructions covering everything, in great detail, from dividing the fabric into workable sections up through the finishing. The text is accompanied by respective pictures.

Openwork_Pattern_Samplers_01
Openwork_Pattern_Samplers_02
Openwork_Pattern_Samplers_03

Also, there are 27 new variations on established Openwork filling patterns, all shown in step-by-step pictures. A view to the table of contents briefs on the variety.

Openwork_Pattern_Samplers_06
Openwork_Pattern_Samplers_07

Because it is inelegant if one does not put a symmetrical pattern centered in a motif, in this book one can find important tips to avoid this mistake.

Openwork_Pattern_Samplers_04
Openwork_Pattern_Samplers_05

In addition to this title, a downloadable file will be available soon. It will show a pretty wreath whose motifs were embroidered with patterns described here.

Openwork Needleweaving Patterns

When working Openwork patterns, one must always begin by making a grid by withdrawing every other pair of length- and crosswise fabric threads.
The established grid is stabilized by working Single Faggot stitched from the back. Afterwards the grid can be embellished with different patterns.
Included herein are only different seamless Openwork Needleweaving patterns – 175 in all. Working these is described in easy to understand step-by-step pictures.

Openwork Needleweaving Patterns_02
Openwork Needleweaving Patterns_03
Openwork Needleweaving Patterns_04
Openwork Needleweaving Patterns_05
Openwork Needleweaving Patterns_06
Openwork Needleweaving Patterns_07

There are tips for efficient working orders and for choosing the right pattern for specific motifs, and some embroidered examples. In the book you will find the same Schwalm design — a border comprised of a tulip, bud, circle and leaves — completed 8 separate times, each with different Openwork Needleweaving patterns. In this way, one can compare the different effects of the individual patterns.

Openwork Pattern Samplers
Openwork Needleweaving Patterns
Openwork Pattern Samplers
illustrated with step-by-step instructions
Text: English
109 pages, colour
plastic comb binding

35,00 €
shop
Openwork Needleweaving Patterns
Filling patterns illustrated with step-by-step instructions
Text: English
93 pages, colour
plastic comb binding

with a table of contents showing each pattern for ease in location instructions
29,90 €

shop

Easter Eggs embroidered with Schwalm Whitework motifs

(If you came to this blog post via pinterest, please take a look here too, to find many other interesting subjects.)

Easter Eggs embroidered with Schwalm Whitework motifs

Ostereier bestickt mit Motiven aus der Schwälmer WeißstickereiOsterei bestickt mit Motiv aus der Schwälmer Weißstickerei

Plastic eggs, the size of chicken eggs, are covered with embroidered linen. Because eggs decorated with whitework embroidery are not very eye-catching, it is better to work the Easter egg embroidery modestly coloured.

Werkzeug und Material für die Hestellung

Materials:

  • Plastic eggs the size of chicken eggs (eggs made of styrofoam or rubber are not suitable)
  • Pieces of linen 15 cm X 15 cm . The linen should not be woven too densely because creases are unavoidable. It should also not be too coarse, because here the joins cannot be worked cleanly. 13/14 threads per cm thread count linen from the Weddigen company is well suitable
  • iron transfer pencil, carbon paper or water erasable pen
  • stranded cotton
  • Chenille needles No. 24 or No. 26 for the Coral Knots, Blanket, Satin and Chain stitches
  • Tapestry needle No. 26 for the filling patterns
  • wide rubber band
  • pen
  • white glue
  • paint brush
  • small and sharp embroidery scissors
  • small velvet ribbon or ribbon of crocheted stranded cotton (ca. 0.5 cm wide and 50 cm – 70 cm long) matching the color of the embroidery
    (Because ribbon is applied with glue, satin ribbons are not suitable. Velvet ribbons are not always available in the matching color, so another ribbon which will not allow glue to show through may be substituted.)

Cut the linen to squares of 15 cm X 15 cm. If you want to embroider more than one egg, it is best to cut a linen strip with the width of 15 cm and to divide this strip into squares, without cutting, with pencil lines. This way it is easier to mount the linen into a hoop and it is easier to prevent fabric edges from fraying.

Prevent the fabric edges against fraying.

It is possible to situate the motif either on grain or diagonally to the grain. Depending on the filling pattern you will use later, with a pencil line or with some short running stitches in a contrasting colored sewing thread, mark either the longitudinal axis or the diagonal axis of the square.

Design a motif or use one of mine. The motif should not measure more than 4 cm in the width and 5 cm in the height.
In the Shop you will find for sale a pdf document with 24 different designs appropriate for Easter egg decoration.

Konturen auf den Stoff übertragen

Transfer the design onto the fabric using your preferred method.

Once the design is transferred, you can start stitching.
Stranded cotton is used for stitching the motifs. This 6-strand thread is divided, and 2 strands are used in the needle. One strand is used for most of the filling stitches.
First work all the outlines of the shape, the tendrils and stems with Coral Knot stitches. Half eyelets are worked with Blanket stitches and leaves and dots are worked with Satin stitches. For more detailed information please refer to “Basic Principles of Schwalm Whitework”.

das Motiv sticken 1das Motiv sticken 2das Motiv sticken 3

Then fill the motif areas with patterns. Because the areas are so very small here no withdrawing of threads is done.

das Motiv sticken 4

Especially suitable for filling the motifs are small patterns from my books “Basic Principles of Schwalm Whitework“, “Limetrosen I” and “Wickelstiche (Satin stitches)”. In the picture above the pattern “Wave“ of “Limetrosen I, page 11“ was used.

After finishing the embroidery, wash out the color of the outlines.

Iron the linen and, if you embroidered on a strip of linen, cut into squares.

Markierung setzenMarkierung setzen 2

Now the more difficult part of the project starts.
Some plastic eggs are put together in two parts. In this instance, the joins are visible. Mark a pencil line along the join. Eggs not having such a join need to be prepared. Therefore take a rubber band and position it so that one edge of the band lies along the longitudinal axis of the egg. Mark a pencil line along the band. The pencil lines are necessary. They will be seen through the linen later and so you can cut the linen along this line. Take the rubber band away. The egg is divided into two parts.
The following steps need to be practiced first. So take an unembroidered piece of linen. Should the work turn out well, the unembroidered half of the egg can be used as back side of the decorated egg.
For all the following steps it is necessary to have the hands washed very carefully.

Holzleim aufbringenLeinen anbringenLeinen anbringen 2

Now look for the center of one half of the egg, place a small drop of white glue on it and paint it with the brush. Push one of the embroidered squares into the glue.

The center of the embroidered motif should meet the center of the half egg. So that you can find the correct position more easily, it is best to lay the embroidery face down on a table and push the glue in the center of the embroidery. Bring the motif into the correct position and hold it pressing a little while. Now turn it over and hold it pressed in your hand for some minutes, then let it dry for about 10 minutes.
It is very important to fasten the linen in the center. It has to be stretched and pulled and drawn later; this would not be possible without the linen being securely fastened in the center.

Now take a small, flat brush and paint the remaining part of the half egg (exactly up to the pencil line) with a thin coating of white glue.
Starting from the center take both your hands and stretch the linen across the half egg. Take care to not get creases or folds! For a long while you have to hold the egg in your hands, always pressing and smoothing the linen until it is nearly dry.
Trim the linen directly along the middle line; it is best to use a very sharp craft knife. Using scissors it may happen that the glued linen will come undone and the edge will fold later. So please, if using scissors do so very carefully.
After trimming, the edge of the linen needs to be softly tapped using the grip of the knife or the scissors. This will eliminate some bulk later. Again, allow the piece to dry for another 10 minutes.

Work the second half of the egg in the same manner.
You can use the same embroidered motif for the second half, you can use a linen piece with an embroidered “ Happy Easter”, or you can use a plain piece of linen.

To cover the joins of the linen pieces, a small ribbon will be glued.
To avoid a mess caused by too much glue oozing out at the ribbon edges, it is best to take a piece of paper or some similar disposable sheet, put some white glue on it, take the back of the knife, dip it into the glue and bring it–bit by bit–onto the join so that the whole join is covered with a narrow strip of glue.

Take the middle of the ribbon and start at the bottom middle of the egg to glue the ribbon over the join and up to the top middle of the egg. Push the ribbon onto the egg.

Repeat the same procedure on the other half.
Now sew together both ribbon parts at the top of the egg with some small stitches.

The remaining part of the ribbons will make a loop. Therefore, either knot together the ends of your trimming. The velvet ribbons need to be sewn together, so lay one end of the ribbon 1 cm over the other end and secure with small stitches.
With a loop the eggs can hang on a branch.
Also it is possible to create small loops at the top of the egg and secure them by sewing.

Happy Easter

Have I piqued your interest? I have written a more detailed description with step-by-step instructions! Also included in this, my latest leaflet, are many examples of appropriate filling patterns as well as 60 different small designs.
Titelblatt Bestickte Ostereier

“Embroidered Easter Eggs” is a 21-page leaflet with plastic comb binding, and you may order it through my shop.

24 kleine Konturenmuster

24 small Designs” you may order as download product through my shop.

Easter Eggs

Easter EggEaster EggEaster Egg

As in other parts of the world, decorating eggs for Easter has also been a long tradition in Hessia. In this region there are three different techniques used to decorate eggs:

  • The wax-resist or batik method
  • The scratch technique
  • Embroidery with Schwalm Whitework motifs

I present the first two techniques here, the third–with detailed instructions–will be posted soon.

Easter Eggs The wax-resist

The wax-resist or batik method

In the region surrounding Marburg raw chicken eggs (today, blown out chicken eggs are also used) are first decorated–with images and written sentiments–using wax in accordance with ancient custom. Then these eggs are dyed and afterwards the wax is removed.
One can find out more about this technique and the patterns used here:
www.margot-bieker.de

Ostereier Hesseneier

The scratch technique

Large blown out chicken eggs with white eggshell are dyed first and then the pattern is scratched out. This technique is well known in many regions, unique here are the patterns; motifs of Schwalm Whitework are scratched into the front of the egg, short verses in old German letters http://www.suetterlinschrift.de/index.html are engraved into the back, and an encircling band with “Openwork patterns“ divides the front of the egg from the back.

Because such eggs are rare, I have published a 23-page leaflet showing 23 different decorated Easter eggs. Included on each page is: a line drawing of the front motif, which–depending on the design–could be used for Schwalm Whitework; the translation of the verse; a colored picture of the pattern band; an image of the same pattern band embroidered.

Easter Eggs 1/2

This lovely and informative leaflet has a plastic comb binding, and you may order it through my Shop.