A Wide Hem with a Folded Peahole Edging

(If you came to this blog post via pinterest, please take a look here too.)

In previous articles I showed how to work a folded Peahole edging and how to work the corner of the folded Peahole edging. Now I present a wide hem with a mitered corner and a folded Peahole edging.
Linen with a 13.5/cm thread count is cut to measure 26 cm X 26 cm. The center is marked.
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From the center point, count 40 horizontal and 40 vertical threads, and cut the forty-first thread; withdraw the threads to their intersection point.
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The section of the withdrawn thread measures 3 cm. The opposite thread end is now withdrawn about 3.5 cm.
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Outward from the withdrawn-thread line, leave 4 threads, and cut the fifth thread where it aligns with the center; withdraw it about 3.5 cm to both sides.
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Starting at the left at the vertical withdrawn-thread line, work Four-Sided stitches over 4 threads between the two horizontal withdrawn-thread lines. Work 20 stitches in all and stop.
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Cut the vertical thread to the right of the center mark (again, the forty-first thread) and withdraw it about 3.5 cm in both directions.
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Leave 4 threads to the right, and withdraw the fifth. Turn the work 90° counterclockwise,
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and continue working Four-Sided stitches around the corner.
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After working 21 (counting the Four-Sided stitch at the corner) Four-Sided stitches, withdraw perpendicular threads in the established way. Also withdraw the cut thread of the first withdrawnthread line about 3.5 cm and the fifth thread outward from this line. Work Four-Sided stitches around the entire square.
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Leave 6 threads outward each side, and cut the seventh in the middle of the side. Leave 4 threads outward, and cut the fifth in the middle. Withdraw the thread ends of the outermost cut threads to their respective intersection points.
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Now withdraw all the cut threads on the inside up to these lines. The thread ends remain there. They will disappear in the hem later.
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Around the square work 20 Four-Sided stitches between the outside withdrawn-thread lines on each side; these stitches must match the inner Four-Sided stitches. The corner sections remain free.
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Cut and withdraw the remaining 6 threads. Baste the thread ends in place and work Peaholes.
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Now prepare the section for the wide hem. Therefore, a number of threads divisible by 8 plus 2 are needed. In this example I chose 34.
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So, out from the outer withdrawn-thread line count 34 threads, and cut the thirty-fifth thread. From now on all threads can be withdrawn up to the edge of the linen.
Please note, if you will work a wide hem as I show here, this counted section is the front of the hem.
You must have enough remaining fabric for working the Peaholes, the back side of the hem, and a fold. Please keep this in mind so that you do not have too little fabric in the end.
Leave 4 threads outward and withdraw the fifth.
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Work Four-Sided stitches around the entire square.
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Withdrawn more threads:

leave 8 cut 1
leave 4 cut 1
leave 34 cut 1

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Work the Peaholes for the folded Peahole edging and trim the fabric for the hem fold to about 1 cm.
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Mark the sewing line for the mitered corner. The line should run diagonally through the outside Four-Sided stitches.
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Fold the piece exactly – right sides together. Sew by hand or by machine.
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Trim the seam allowance to about 1 cm.
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Turn the hem corner. For more information about hemming please look to my book Basic Principles of Schwalm Whitework.
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Fasten the hem, work the corners of the inside Peahole hem. Continue working the folded Peahole edging.
Wash, starch and iron the piece. Leave it as it is – a nice little doily. Or use it for making a beautiful lavender sachet. If you were to add a loop for hanging and a tassel, it is also well-suited for a lovely ornament for trimming the tree.
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If you would like to work a larger project, square or rectangle in any size, counting fabric threads from the center of the piece is nearly impossible. And the order of working is somewhat different from the order presented in this blog post.
So, I made a leaflet for downloading; it explains in great detail how to withdraw fabric threads, how to work wrapped Peaholes for both the hem and the folded edging, how to make a mitered corner in the hem, and finishing.
On 17 pages, illustrated with 70 pictures, you will find all the needed step-by-step instructions for working a wide hem with a folded Peahole edging.
Titel Erbslochkante deutsch

A Wide Hem with a Folded Peahole Edging
described in great detail
and
illustrated with step-by-step instructions
17 pages
7,8 MB file size
Text: English
15,00 € (12,61 € + 19 % value added tax)
download here

Traditional Schwalm Bodice Sleeve Cuff Design A

Presented here is a very finely embroidered traditional Schwalm bodice sleeve cuff. It has an extravagant, intricate, and rare design. (Because I did not want to unstitch the sleeve to be able to get one photo of the complete border, I put together three pictures.)
MA_gesamt_gut
The embroidery on the cuff clearly shows the wide range of creative possibilities Schwalm whitework holds ready. In this design you will find many different shapes filled with 2 simple withdrawn-thread patterns, 2 Limet patterns, and 13 openwork patterns; half-eyelet scallops, knife points, knife points with Blanket stitches, 2 short–2 long and Eyelash stitches as well as double rows of Coral Knot stitches and double rows of Chain stitches for outlining the single shapes; tendrils, small leaves, and flowers as well as Blanket stitch eyelets for filling the open areas between the motifs.

Details of the embroidery and all the filling patterns I will show in enlarged pictures in my next post.

I commissioned a graphic designer to make professionally drawn designs of the traditional Schwalm whitework border pictured above. I am pleased to announce that these professional linedrawn designs are now available as downloadable files.

Bodice sleeve cuff border A1

line-drawn designs
A1 is a set of 3 drawings: a. The drawing is nearly the same as seen in the original embroidery and
in the original size; b. one more, a similar drawing, but the motif outlines have been slightly
changed – also in the original size; c. the drawing is similar to b, but changed to a rectangle and d.
the drawing is similar to c, but enlarged 150%.

Bodice sleeve cuff border A1
line-drawn designs
8 pages
1,32 MB file size
Text: English
10,00 € (8,40 € + 19% value added tax)
download here

A1_englisch

Bodice sleeve cuff border A2

line-drawn designs
The upper section of the traditional border was made up to an endless design in the original size. A matching corner design was created. So, with these design sections an arbitrarily long border, a small and a large square, and an oblong can be worked.
(Many more creative possibilities can be discovered by adding the lower section of the border, shown in line-drawn designs A3.)

Bodice sleeve cuff border A2
line-drawn designs
8 pages
1,44 MB file size
Text: English
10,00 € (8,40 € + 19% value added tax)
download here

A2_englisch

Bodice sleeve cuff border A3

line-drawn designs
The lower section of the traditional border was made up to an endless design in both the original size and enlarged 150%. A matching corner designs were created. So, with these design sections an arbitrarily long border, a small and a large square, and an oblong can be worked.
(Many more creative possibilities can be discovered by adding the upper section of the border, shown in line-drawn designs A2.)
Also two different, closely filled rectangular designs were created; however, these have to be enlarged according to personal preference.

Bodice sleeve cuff border A3
line-drawn designs
11 pages
1,73 MB file size
Text: English
10,00 € (8,40 € + 19% value added tax)
download here

A3_englisch

Bodice sleeve cuff border A4

line-drawn designs
This is a variant of the original design. It is an enlarged layout offering interesting creative possibilities for borders, asymmetrical oblongs, or an extravagant square design.

Bodice sleeve cuff border A4
line-drawn designs
11 pages
1,63 MB file size
Text: English
10,00 € (8,40 € + 19% value added tax)
download here

A4_englisch

My collection contains many more pretty examples of Schwalm whitework worth seeing – both traditional and contemporary pieces. I would like to show you all of these treasures.
However, I am in a conundrum. I want to share my love of this regional embroidery, but I am finding it difficult to justify the expense of doing so. It takes an immense amount of time to do all the research for my posts and to make them ready for publishing. In addition, I also have the significant cost associated with web design and maintenance, English language editing, a designer who realizes new and original designs, a graphic designer who produces crisp and professional line drawings, and the acquisition of significant Schwalm embroideries.

I evaluated the investment of time and money to produce books, and I have come to the conclusion that it is not worthwhile to produce any more new books or catalogues. I can share things much more comprehensively and easily on my blog. But all the expenses listed above still apply to maintaining a vibrant blog!

So, here are some things I have considered and decided. At first I thought about installing a paywall on my website and to show my best pieces for a fee. This is very laborious, and I would probably find the pictures of my embroidery pinned on various internet “walls” around the world anyway.
So, I chose not to pursue this plan.

Now I have made the decision to periodically offer small items for purchase. With the acquisition you receive not only a nice item found nowhere else but also the satisfaction of knowing that you are supporting my efforts of keeping this fascinating embroidery alive.

I hope you will consider a visit to my website as a visit to an interesting embroidery “museum,” library, or store – you will be able to visit my website any time and to stay for as long as you want to find assembled information that is available nowhere else. You will be able to view beautiful embroideries that would be difficult to find in any but the most specialized museums, to learn new things, and to buy various products.

With your continued support I look forward to bringing to you – via my blog – the best of Schwalm whitework history, design, and instruction.

THANK YOU!

Schwalm Curved Lines, Narrow Borders, and Ornamental Stitches

In Schwalm whitework wide motif bands are often bordered by narrow borders and ornamental stitches. These are usually inconspicuous, but upon closer examination they show great creative ingenuity and true embroidery art. This is reason enough to take a closer look at these elements of Schwalm needleart.

I had the privilege to meticulously examine many historical pieces – mostly bodices, but also parade cushions, aprons and others. The pieces of traditional Schwalm whitework at my disposal were mostly from the 19th century; the oldest piece was dated 1821. Viewing these historical Schwalm whitework embroideries, one can often find curved or zig-zag lines of decorations in various arrangements. Upon closer examination, nearly all the embroideries had motif bands that included such ornamental stitches or narrow borders, which can be divided into three distinct categories:

  • “Kerrercher” (called ‘small chain’ by Anneliese Spieß, and in Schwalm it is also known as “Schlängchen” [curved line]).
  • Motif borders
  • Herringbone stitches

And all three appear in a wide range of variations.

In my new publication

Schwalm
Curved Lines,
Narrow Borders,
and Ornamental Stitches


you will find a General Overview of these embellishments and an explanation of the significance of curved or zig-zag lines in Schwalm embroidery. You will also find more than 50 pictures of historical borders. A graphic artist re-created the designs, and many of these are represented in different sizes for your use.

In addition to the historical borders, contemporary borders, inspired by historical Schwalm embroidered crowns and caps, are also represented. In all there are 142 design drawings and 88 different motifs!

Also included are illustrated step-by-step instructions for working the different variations of curved lines and ornamental stitches.

49 pages 102 different possibilities 66.183 KB file size (3 different pdf-files in all) Text: English 25.00 EUR download here

49 pages
102 different possibilities
66.183 KB file size (3 different pdf-files in all)
Text: English

25.00 EUR

download here

Of course it is also possible to get this publication as a printed booklet for the same price (25.00 EUR) plus shipping charges. This option is not shown in my shop, so please email me with your request.

Exhibition Catalogue 2011

Exhibition Catalogue 2011 “The Art of Schwalm Whitework”

It happened that some of my English speaking customers got the German version of my exhibition catalogue 2011. They were so enthusiastic about it and gave me so much grateful feedback that I decided to translate the text from German to English. The catalogue document is not only a picture book, but it also contains descriptions of the exhibits — often including the measurements of the designs, valuable particulars and information, and where to find more detailed descriptions and instructions.

Up to now, I have not offered the catalogue in my online shop; with its 142 pages, it is not economical to ship. So I have decided to make the catalogue downloadable. Putting together the 297 excellent pictures and close-up photos was a lot of work, but I believe it has turned out to be a worthwhile document. (Please note that some of the pictures can also be found on my website or in my books.)

Now, after some months of preparatory work, it is finished and ready to present to you!

Perhaps one might think that downloading a document consisting of 6 different large files is a bit onerous. But consider this: you will be able to see 142 examples of traditional and brilliant contemporary Schwalm whitework in the comfort of your own home. Compare this to traveling to a foreign country and staying in strange environments, all which are not only expensive, but also very strenuous. The exhibition online catalogue is a trove of wonderful designs and information.

Don’t forget that having the document on your computer screen enables you to zoom in and to look carefully at each small detail!

Why not give yourself a Christmas gift? Only a few minutes for downloading will yield many hours comfortably looking through the pages and getting inspired!

The Art of Schwalm Whitework - Exhibition Catalogue 2011

The Art of Schwalm Whitework – Exhibition Catalogue 2011

  • documentation of the 2011 exhibition in Eschwege, Germany
  • Text: English
  • Pages: 142, many excellent pictures and close-up photos showing details

Consists mainly of Schwalm Whitework. One will find both extravagant historical pieces and elaborate contemporary projects. Included are examples of all types of Schwalm Whitework.
One can find Easter motifs and Christmas embroideries, as well as an elaborately worked Christening robe. Pattern samplers as well as modern whitework complete the collection.
Finally, each exhibit is described in detail.

For those who do not mind paying high shipping costs, and who prefer to have a printed version, I also offer the same document as a paper product.

Röserich Filling Patterns

Filling Patterns No. 452 – 468: Röseriches
category: Limet-Filling patterns
The “Röserich” is one of the most prominent stitches in Schwalm Whitework. The name itself, Röserich, denotes importance and grandeur. It is often combined with other stitches to make stunning filling patterns, but it is also seen alone.

The most famous and most prevalent variant is the pattern shown on the picture on bottom.
The Röserich patterns are effective in different shapes. They are a little bit intricate, but following the steps carefully the design will turn out well.
Working on this project, I experimented and discovered more and more nice Röserich patterns – very different, but always beautiful. There are patterns for small shapes as well as large shapes, striped patterns, patterns worked on the straight of grain or on the bias, and patterns suitable for circles – 17 different patterns in all (some presented in two different variations)!

So, I decided to make a downloadable booklet to present the different Röserich variants in great detail and with step-by-step instructions, and to share with you the patterns that I discovered. I know you will want to learn more about this grand and important Schwalm Whitework stitch!

Please note that it is assumed the embroiderer is already familiar with the basic Schwalm Whitework stitches. If you need those instructions, please see “Basic Principles of Schwalm Whitework”.

The most beautiful Röserich Filling Patterns described in great detail and illustrated with step-by-step instructions 25 pages 17 different patterns 15.1 MB file size Text: English 15,00 EUR download here

The most beautiful
Röserich Filling Patterns
described in great detail and illustrated with step-by-step instructions

25 pages
17 different patterns
15.1 MB file size
Text: English

15,00 EUR

download here