tips and tricks

Joining lengths of linen with Plaited Insertion stitches (also known as Interlaced Insertion stitches) to get an elastic and flexible join is the subject of this article. (In the previous article you learned about combining two pieces of linen with solid joins.)

One can use faggoting (also known as Twisted Faggot stitch) to join lengths of linen, as seen in the below apron.

This method establishes a narrow embellishment.

A more prominent embellishment is established with groups of three stitches.

To get an elastic and flexible join, this method is more common in the Schwalm.

Thread weight and stitch spacing affect the final appearance.

This method was used for both joining lengths of fabric together and adding bobbin lace or sprang lace.

I will explain how to work Plaited Insertion stitches in a future article.

In the Schwalm handwoven linen was used. Often the small farms did not have wide weaving looms. So, linen with a width of approximately 70–80 cm was common. (Only a few weaving looms were wider, making it very difficult to find old handwoven linen wider than 80 cm today.)

However, at the time, there was a need for wider linen pieces, and this was achieved by joining, in creative ways, lengths of linen. The joins were made either with overcasting stitches to get a solid join or with Plaited Insertion stitches (also known as Interlaced Insertion stitches) to get an elastic and flexible join.

This article deals with the possible ways of making a solid join. It assumes the linen pieces have a selvage on the edges, and it is these edges that should be joined.

First, because it may happen that two pieces, cut from the same linen roll and to the same length, will shrink differently, the linen pieces must be preshrunk by boiling, This ensures the join will not be wavy.

The pieces need to be ironed, and, while ironing, one has to avoid stretching the linen in one or the other direction.

Stitching by hand small overcasting stitches is the simplest way to join the two pieces of linen. The first example shows this method worked on more coarse linen – the top seam shows the front side, the bottom seam the back side.

The example below shows this method worked on finer linen – the top seam shows the front side, the bottom seam the back side. This piece is from 1866, making it more than 150 years old. And the seam is still intact.

This method was mostly used for bed coverings, bed sheets, and aprons. For additional decoration on aprons, the seam was sometimes covered with curved lines,

as the enlargement shows.

On contemporary pieces, this method is not often used. I could find one example on an elaborate table linen.

Here the seam was covered with a long stem with leaves and tendrils.

Today, for larger table linens, a double seam is usually worked. A thread is withdrawn along the selvage. The selvages are laid on top of each other and fastened with Antique hem stitches on both sides. Such a seam can remain without further decoration.

However, it can be covered with Herringbone stitches

and further embellished with Four-Sided stitches.

Or a needle-weaving band can be worked on one side.

It is also possible to work needle-weaving bands on both sides of the join.

But in this instance, it is not always easy to establish the same width of the bundles on both sides, which results in the two band patterns not exactly matching.

But if one does not eschew elaborate and painstaking work, beautiful decorations can be established along the joined selvages.

In this example, the selvage section was additionally decorated with Herringbone stitches.

Joining small lengths of linen in this way can establish large pieces with a splendid appearance.

In the above example only three pieces were joined together. The additional decoration was worked to match the seam sections, but without having a seam.

A Blanket stitch eyelet is a small circle covered with closely worked Blanket stitches. All stitches start from the center and are worked counterclockwise. The loops create the outside edge.
It is difficult to get a true circle when drawing by hand. But only with a perfect circle can one achieve the best results when embroidering. So it is appropriate to use a tool for drawing circles.
After transferring the design to the linen, the piece is stretched in a hoop. Bring needle up directly on the outline,
pull the thread through and lay a loop to the left and downward. Insert the needle into the center, and bring it up again on the outline, a small distance from where the thread first emerged.
The thread should be situated beneath the needle.
Pull the thread through, and tighten it in the direction of the stitch so that a small hole is established in the center (but do not distort the weave of the fabric).
While holding the thread in this direction, insert the needle in the center again, and bring it up on the outline next to the previous stitch.
Again situate the thread beneath the needle,
and work a Blanket stitch as described before.
Always starting from the center, Blanket stitches are densely worked one after another. Always rotate the piece so that the needle can prick from right to left. The stitches should be evenly distributed, and they should have an orderly appearance at the center. If necessary, widen the center hole a little bit using the needle.
When the circle is filled, close the round by inserting the needle directly under the first loop and slide the thread to the back.
In this way you get a wonderful round Blanket stitch eyelet.
Of course, after boiling, starching, and ironing the blue outline disappears, and the Blanket stitch eyelet looks excellent (please keep in mind, that the image shows a strong magnification).
I found the stitch clearly drawn in a Danish booklet from Esther Fangel.

Haandarbejdets Fremmes Haandbøger
5
Esther Fangel
Gammel Dansk
Hvidsøm
Esther Fangel: Gammel Dansk Hvidsøm
This booklet focuses on traditional Danish whitework, which is in parts similar to Schwalm whitework.

Small leaves pointed on both ends and approximately elliptic are common elements of Schwalm whitework. Some embroiderers have told me about their difficulties while working these leaves. So here are detailed instructions for working them. The examples shown here are worked on 16/cm thread count linen using coton à broder No. 25. I have provided two line drawings of different sizes.
The smaller one (about 4.5 cm X 3 cm) is for the advanced stitcher. Beginners should use the larger design (about 5.9 X 3.9 cm) for practicing. So that you get the designs in the right sizes, you can use my new service and download for free a pdf document with the line drawings.

Transfer the design to the linen – keeping in mind that when ironing it to the linen, the design ends up mirrored.
Stretch the piece in a hoop.
First, draw a line in the middle of the leaves; do this by starting at the stem and ending at about the same distance from the top point as from the sides.
Secure the thread, and bring the needle up where the outline of the leaf meets the stem. Work a first small Satin stitch directly along the outline.
Position subsequent stitches between the outline and the middle line. However, the stitches should not cover the middle line.
Densely work the stitches
following the shape of the leaf; that means the stitches do not lie quite parallel – at the center of the leaf they are slightly closer together than at the outside edge. Always turn the piece so that the needle runs horizontally from right to left.
The stitch at the tip of the leaf should run straight from the middle line to the top point. So that the leave looks truly pointed in the end, this stitch is made 1–2 mm beyond the outline.
The second side of the leaf is worked from the tip back to the stem, always taking the needle down at the outside edge and bringing it back up at middle line.
Also, remember to turn the piece so that the needle runs horizontally from right to left.
The opposite leaf is embroidered in the same way. The first stitch begins at the stem and is taken a small distance along the outside edge.
The stitch at the tip is made a small step beyond the outline before the second side of the leaf is worked between outside edge and middle line.
Again, the stitches follow the shape of the leaf and fan apart a little bit at the outside edge.
Please keep in mind that the leaves shown here could not be worked smoothly in one move because I had to stop and take pictures. Furthermore, please keep in mind that the images are enlarged where every tiny stitch imperfection is magnified. After removing the marking lines and shrinking by boiling, and when the piece is starched and ironed, these leaves look perfect.
Simply give it a try.

If you take pleasure in working these leaves and if you are looking for more elaborate designs, here are my suggestions. Irmgard Mengel prints the designs on 16/cm (or 40/inch) thread count linen.
The leaves-hearts-wreath design measures 60 cm in diameter and is printed on linen cut to size 90 cm X 90 cm. It is €29 + shipping in addition.
The star-square design is printed on linen cut to size 65 cm X 65 cm. It has a price of €22 + shipping in addition.
If you are interested, please email me (leuchtbergverlag@aol.com).