The Rose Stitch

The Rose stitch is one of the basic stitches of Schwalm whitework. It is worked in both Limet patterns and openwork patterns. Using Rose stitches only, one can create many beautiful filling
patterns. In combination with other stitches, the variety of patterns is nearly infinite.

I have learned that many Schwalm students find it difficult to understand the right course of the stitch. So, in this post I will explain how to work the Rose stitch in detailed instructions and with an introduction.

One Rose stitch is established by working 4 Blanket stitches—all loops originate from the same point, and the “legs” placed in four directions (like a cross).

To learn the basic principles of the Rose stitch, it is a good idea to practice how to make the Blanket stitch. Take a piece of coarse (low thread count) evenweave fabric and make a Limet grid by withdrawing 1 thread and leaving 3—both horizontally and vertically. Using a coloured thread, practice making some Blanket stitches:Roenstich_1Somewhere in the left area of the grid, bring the needle up in any intersection of withdrawn thread lines.
Rosenstich_2Loop the thread down and to the right,
Rosenstich_3insert the needle one fabric thread to the right of where the needle was first brought up, and crossing under 3 fabric threads, bring the needle to the front. The thread that was looped down and to the right should now be under the tip of the needle.
Rosenstich_4Pull the needle and thread in the direction of the stitch and tighten it.
Rosenstich_5In the same way, work one more Blanket stitch at a distance of 1 fabric thread to the right.
Rosenstich_6Work as many Blanket stitches as you need to feel comfortable working these stitches. End in a place where a vertical fabric thread was withdrawn.
Rosenstich_7Turn your work 90° counterclockwise and work one more Blanket stitch in the established way.
Rosenstich_8Pull the needle and thread in the direction of the stitch.
Rosenstich_9Again turn your work 90° counterclockwise and work a third Blanket stitch in the same way.
Rosenstich_10The loops of the last 3 stitches of the Rose stitch originate from the same point. I cannot show the fourth stitch in this example. But I hope that this introduction helps you to better understand how the Rose stitch is worked.

So that it is not too confusing, the following instructions show how to work the Rose stitch without turning the fabric.
Rosenstich_11The working thread is anchored from the bottom of the Rose stitch. Bring the needle up (point where the needle emerges = center of the stitch), loop the thread up and to the left, cross over one square (three threads) to the left, insert the needle and bring it up in the center again. Tighten thread.
Rosenstich_12Loop the thread to the right and up, cross over one square (three threads) up, insert the needle and bring it up in the center hole again. Notice that the looped thread is beneath the needle. Tighten thread.
Rosenstich_13Loop the thread to the bottom and right, cross over one square (three threads) to the right, insert the needle and bring it up in the center again with the thread beneath the needle. Tighten thread.
Rosenstich_14Loop the thread to the left and down, cross over one square at the bottom, insert the needle and bring it up in the center again with the looped thread beneath the needle. Tighten thread.
Rosenstich_15After working the fourth stitch, the working thread comes up to the right of the fourth stitch. Cross over the fourth stitch to the left and insert the needle at the bottom of the center hole.
Rosenstich_16Bring the needle up in the next center, one square (three threads) to the right of the top stitch of the Rose stitch just worked. (Each hole of the longitudinal axis is a center of a Rose stitch.)
Rosenstich_17Start working with the first step of the Rose stitch again.
Rosenstich_18In this way, one by one, the Rose stitch is worked in diagonal rows.

Filling Pattern – No. 477

No. 477
category: Limet-Filling pattern; please note that this is worked on a leave 4, cut 1grid
stitches used: 4 X 9 stitches of the simple square eyelet and Rose stitches
center: intersection of withdrawn thread lines (in other shapes or motifs, longitudinal axis = withdrawn thread line)

This pattern is similar to pattern 476.
476_477_1First, both the horizontal and the vertical center threads are withdrawn.
476_477_2Working from the center outwards, a Limet grid is established by leaving 4 threads, and cutting 1.
476_477_3In the established Limet grid, work a grid of nine-stitch simple square eyelets. In this example a Rose stitch should lay in the center of the shape. So from the center, bring the needle up diagonally to the left, one square up. Work 9 stitches of the simple square eyelet counterclockwise around the starting point.
476_477_4Repeat working 9 stitches of the simple square eyelet, counterclockwise moving around the center, in diagonal rows as seen in the picture above
476_477_5lengthwise
476_477_6and crosswise to establish the grid.
477_7In the remaining squares, Rose stitches are worked.
477_8Washed, starched, and ironed one more pretty pattern is finished. The partial square eyelets look embossed, whereas the ares with Rose stitches are flat. This makes an interesting contrast.

Filling Pattern – No. 476

No. 476
category: Limet-Filling pattern; please note that this is worked on a leave 4, cut 1grid
stitches used: 4 X 9 stitches of the simple square eyelet and 4 X 3 Satin stitches over 1 square in the width
center: intersection of withdrawn thread lines (in other shapes or motifs, longitudinal axis = withdrawn thread line)

This pattern is very similar to pattern 475. Using the leave 4, cut 1 grid the result is bolder.
476_477_1First, both the horizontal and the vertical center threads are withdrawn.
476_477_2Working from the center outwards, a Limet grid is established by leaving 4 threads, and cutting 1.
476_477_3In the established Limet grid, work a grid of nine-stitch simple square eyelets. In this example a square of 4 X3 Satin stitches should lay in the center of the shape. So from the center, bring the needle up diagonally to the left, one square up. Work 9 stitches of the simple square eyelet counterclockwise around the starting point.
476_477_4Repeat working 9 stitches of the simple square eyelet, counterclockwise moving around the center, in diagonal rows as seen in the picture above
476_477_5lengthwise
476_477_6and crosswise to establish the grid.

In the remaining squares, 4 X 3 Satin stitches are worked, always reemerging from the center hole of the square and stitching always 3 stitches in the same place, one upon the other. Continue working 3 Satin stitches in all four directions. Always tighten the thread so that the center hole of the square becomes nicely open.
Work 4 X 3 Satin stitches in each remaining square of the shape.
476_7Washed, starched, and ironed one more pretty pattern is finished.

Filling Pattern – No. 475

No. 475
category: Limet-Filling pattern
stitches used: 4 X 7 stitches of the simple square eyelet and 4 X 3 Satin stitches over 1 square in the width
center: intersection of withdrawn thread lines (in other shapes or motifs: longitudinal axis = withdrawn thread line)
475_1First, in the established Limet grid, work a grid of seven-stitch simple square eyelets arranged in groups of four, called “small ox eye grid” in Limetrosen I, page 15. From the center, bring the needle up diagonally to the left, one square down.
475_2Work 7 stitches of the simple square eyelet counterclockwise around the starting point.
475_3Repeat working 7 stitches of the simple square eyelet, counterclockwise moving around the center,
475_44 times in all. One “small flower” is finished.
475_5There are two different ways to continue: either work small flowers like a checkerboard all over the shape,
475_6or work from the center small flowers in diagonal rows as seen in the picture above
475_7lengthwise and crosswise
475_8to establish the grid.

In the remaining squares, 4 X 3 Satin stitches are worked, always reemerging in the center hole of the square and stitching always 3 stitches in the same place, one upon the other.
475_9Continue working 3 Satin stitches in all four directions.
475_10Always tighten the thread so that the center hole of the square becomes nicely open.
475_11Work 4 X 3 Satin stitches in each remaining square of the shape.
475_12Washed, starched and ironed one more pretty pattern is finished. It is a little bit similar to pattern 474, but easier to work.
475_13

Filling Pattern – No. 474

No. 474
category: Limet-Filling pattern; please note that this is worked on a leave 4, cut 1grid
stitches used: diagonal Satin stitches over 1, 2, 3 and 4 intersection points of the fabric threads and Rose stitches
center = intersection of withdrawn thread lines (in other shapes or motifs: longitudinal axis =
withdrawn thread line

474 is a beautiful, but difficult pattern to work.
474_1First, both the horizontal and the vertical center threads are withdrawn.
474_2Working from the center outwards, a Limet grid is established by leaving 4 threads, and cutting 1.
474_3Orient the withdrawn thread lines so that they run diagonally and bring the needle up one thread up and to the left of the bottom of any rhombus on the diagonal center axis. The needle travels to the right and crosses the intersection point of two fabric threads; insert the needle and bring it up at the left one fabric thread up from first stitch.
474_4Work more Satin stitches – 7 in all – from right to left, always moving one thread up on both sides.
474_5third stitch
474_6fourth stitch
474_7fifth stitch
474_8sixth stitch
474_9With the seventh stitch the needle travels to the next starting point at the bottom left of the next rhombus.
474_10Work the 7 Satin stitches again. When taking the first stitch, be careful to insert the needle into the withdrawn thread line and not between the fabric threads of an adjacent rhombus, as the picture below shows. The fabric threads easily shift out of place when traveling from one rhombus to the beginning of the next.
474_11Work, leaving a distance of one rhombus between, rows of Satin stitch rhombi all over the shape.
474_12Turn work 90° and work, up from the diagonal center axis, rows of rhombi perpendicular to the rows already worked.
474_13Please be careful to keep the holes between the stitches clean and open, and avoid inserting your needle into a previously worked thread as seen in the picture above – bottom left (red arrow).

Work Rose stitches in the remaining squares.
474_14Washed, starched and irond the pattern shows its full charme.
474_15This example was worked on 13.5/cm thread count linen using Coton à broder No. 30 for both the Satin stitches and the Rose stitches.