materials and equipment

After testing linen F I, I have now tested the next bale of linen. Here are the results.

The linen is in the original condition of the bale it was sewn into after production. It has smooth selvedges.

Approximately 100 cm needs to be cut off at both the beginning and end of the roll, as the linen is too distorted there.
The linen is 80 cm wide – a very versatile width for handwoven linen.
It feels relatively soft; I would describe the feel as soft.

The linen shows little soiling at the fold and mostly lighter stains across the entire surface.

A quick wash test removed all these stains.
The fabric is dense, the threads used vary in thickness. I count 16 to 18 warp threads and 14 to 16 weft threads per centimeter.

In comparison to linen F I – shown here in the left half in the large square in the lower image – the spaces between the threads are larger.

The threads are usually clearly separated from each other – a sign that they can be easily pulled out.

However, there are also areas with matting, although it is relatively minor.

Occasionally, one finds thread thickenings and also small weaving defects.

Both the warp and weft threads could be pulled out easily and without tearing.

To test the linen for embroidery, a small motif (10 cm x 9 cm) is ironed on and embroidered.

The embroidery process is very pleasant – the linen feels good in the hand and the needle glides easily through the fabric.

Although the linen is not quite as densely woven as linen F I 25394, the stitches can be placed relatively precisely.

The thread pull-out in the motif areas was successful.

Despite the varying thickness of the fabric threads, the Limet thread grid appears relatively uniform.

However, many beautiful filling patterns can be embroidered in the relatively small heart-shaped area of ​​4 cm width.

The small embroidery stands out well on the linen.

All stains have completely disappeared. The thickened threads do not detract from the overall appearance. A slightly irregular structure is typical of handwoven linen and contributes to the fabric’s charm.

However, the linen shrank by approximately 3.5% in the warp direction, while it retained the same width in the weft direction.

This linen—tested and approved—I am selling for €20.00 per meter. If you are interested, please send me an email.

See also:
Selling Handwoven Linen (1)
Testing Fabric Suitability for Schwalm Whitework
Linen: Embroidery Fabric from Flax Fibers
Fault in the Linen – what to do? (1)

Initially, Schwalm whitework was only done on hand-woven linen because that was the fabric that was produced in the region. The hand-spun threads used for this are often more uneven in thickness and twist than machine-spun threads. This makes the fabric made from it appear more structured and interesting.

Such linen has the advantage that it does not wrinkle as easily as machine-woven linen. It is usually very tightly woven and therefore heavier. Projects made from it are easy to iron, and blankets and runners sit well on tables.

But as with all handmade products, there are big differences. There are also many hand-woven linens that are not suitable for embroidery. The threads are too uneven in warp and weft, which does not allow for a pleasing pattern. Or they are only very slightly spun so that the threads fall apart when pulled out. Or they have thickenings that are too thick, making it almost impossible to pull out the thread. Some of the fabrics, which are now more than a hundred years old, have been stored incorrectly, causing the fabric to fall apart. The linen rolls have often become stained over the years. Not all stains can be washed out.

Most linen was woven with a width between 60cm and 75cm. Wider linen is difficult to find and is therefore much more expensive. Often the first and last meter of the role is warped due to the tautening,

so that these sections can no longer be used for embroidery.

(I found an interesting article with informative images about the production of hand-woven linen, but unfortunately only with German text.)

I bought a role of linen with a width of 92 cm and have already done some embroidery on it, like this large wall hanging.

In my next blog post I will show a pillowcase made from this linen.

You have to get used to embroidering on hand-woven linen. You usually find it more difficult at first. I’ve also had linen that almost required pliers to get the needle through the fabric. It’s too tiring and not fun.

The linen presented here can be embroidered quite well. The threads are easy to withdraw and the embroidered patterns have an impressive effect.

The number of threads varies 13/16

or in other areas also 15/17, as you can easily count in the 1cm² magnifications.

The fabric has irregularities

and light stains, which disappeared without difficulty when washed.

Even the dirt in the fold from lying for so long was gone after washing.

In Germany and the surrounding countries, everyone can go looking for hand-woven linen themselves. In many other countries or parts of the world this is not possible. So I received inquiries as to whether I could offer old, hand-woven linen. I hesitated about it for a long time. But now I have decided to test old, hand-woven linen by embroidering it and then offer it for sale.

This particularly wide linen is ideal for sofa cushion covers in sizes from 40cm X 40cm to 45cm X 45cm, as the linen only shrinks minimally.

Good linen has its price, the meter costs €41.65 (including 19% VAT) This is €35 for people out of the EU. In return you get a material that will probably no longer be available very soon and you don’t even need half a meter for a pillowcase.

When looking through my linen stock, I came across a small supply of white striped linen from the Weddigen company. It concerns the following article:

According to the manufacturer, the linen has a shrinkage of approx. 8% to 10% in length and 3% in width. The stripes were created by weaving in thicker threads, as the high magnification shows.

The stripe looks like this:

Unwashed, a stripe is 10 cm wide. The stripes are spaced 18 cm apart on the fabric.

I pulled a thread out of the fabric.

The thread could be easily withdrawn over a long distance. Only a few pieces of fluff remained in the thread line.

A few rows of Four-Sided stitches were quickly embroidered

to try Peahole-

and needle-weaving hem.

Both harmonize very well with the stripes.

I am selling this linen for €10.08 + 19% VAT = €12.00 per stripe (=28 cm x 185 cm)
or in cuts of 56 cm (2 stripes) x 90 cm at a price of €10.92 + 19% VAT = €13.00.

Please email me with your request.

In my next blog post I will show an example of how I processed this linen.

Unfortunately the Weddigen company no longer weaves natural coloured linen. For some special projects I looked for another source.

The Übelhör linen mill from Austria weaves a natural coloured linen. It is pure linen, but durable pressed (i.e., processed to resist wrinkles).This linen comes in two different thread counts – 14/cm and 16/cm. It is nearly evenweave.

The linen is not as heavy as the linen I commonly use. The fabric has a pleasant, soft feel. Meanwhile I embroidered a couple of projects using the 16/cm thread count linen. Embroidering it is nice. Thread withdrawing is easy, but one has to be careful that not further thread slips out then the wanted thread part or the weave of the remaining fabric gets damages.

The advantage of this linen is its durable pressing. This makes it unsusceptible to creases. It should not get a laundry of more than 60° C. However, after the first wash I got a slight shock: Although only washed lukewarm by hand, gently squeezed out and immediately spread out to dry flat, many wrinkles appeared. Sprayed with a little “ironing aid”, the linen became perfectly smooth during ironing.

In the near future I will show details of one of my projects worked on this linen.