materials and equipment

So that my customers can easily get the right material for Schwalm whitework, I have decided to offer for sale Weddigen linen, Anchor threads, and DEKA iron transfer pencils.

Producing high-quality linen becomes more and more difficult nowadays. Many widely known linen mills in Europe suspended their productions in the last years. I do not know how long the Weddigen linen mill will still weave. Weddigen produces the best linen suitable for Schwalm whitework. So I decided to store some rolls in different qualities. Some articles are only available in small quantities, so it is advisable to stock up on this wonderful linen before it is too late.

I offer four linen qualities in different widths and sometimes in different colours.

Here is an overview:

#160 (this is the linen I recommend for beginners)
13.5 threads per cm
34.29 threads per inch
width in meters: 1.85
net price/meter EUR (customers outside the EU pay net price only): 34
gross price/meter EUR (customers inside the EU pay 19% VAT on the net price): 40.46

#925 (this is the most common linen for Schwalm whitework, called Alba Maxima in the United States)
16 threads per cm
40.64 threads per inch
width in meters: 2.30
Please see also my article about testing this linen #925, width 2.30m.
net price/meter EUR (customers outside the EU pay net price only): 42.60
gross price/meter EUR (customers inside the EU pay 19% VAT on the net price): 50.69

width in meters: 1.85
net price/meter EUR (customers outside the EU pay net price only): 34.40
gross price/meter EUR (customers inside the EU pay 19% VAT on the net price): 40.94

width in meters: 1.40
net price/meter EUR (customers outside the EU pay net price only): 28.40
gross price/meter EUR (customers inside the EU pay 19% VAT on the net price): 33.80

#180 (this is a very fine pure warp linen)
20 threads per cm
50.8 threads per inch
width in meters: 1.85
Please see also my article about linen #180.
net price/meter EUR (customers outside the EU pay net price only): 43
gross price/meter EUR (customers inside the EU pay 19% VAT on the net price): 51.17

#121 (this has an open texture appearance and is especially good for shadow work or, in Schwalm whitework, christening robes or curtains)
20 threads per cm
50.8 threads per inch
width in meters: 1.85
net price/meter EUR (customers outside the EU pay net price only): 32
gross price/meter EUR (customers inside the EU pay 19% VAT on the net price): 38.08

Pictures for viewing the structure and counting the threads, and specifications such as special cuts, weight, and shipping prices are found in this document: Weddigen Linen Available.

To round off my service, I also offer Anchor coton à broder threads colour 02 (off white) Nos. 16, 20, 25, and 30.
net price/skein EUR (customers outside the EU pay net price only): 1.98
gross price/skein EUR (customers inside the EU pay 19% VAT on the net price): 2.36

and DEKA iron transfer pencils
net price/pencil EUR (customers outside the EU pay net price only): 3.36
gross price/pencil EUR (customers inside the EU pay 19% VAT on the net price): 4.00

Unfortunately, I cannot incorporate all these options in my online shop, so please email me with your request.

Linen is a natural product. The end product is only as good as the preliminary stages allow. And so it makes sense that each batch of material from the Weddigen linen mill is slightly different from previous ones. This is normal and to be expected.

Recently I received some linen that looked, at first sight, different – it had many small fluffs on the surface and also some scattered bits of fibers sticking out. And I experienced more typical linen slubs as in other batches of the same article with other width. This linen is article #925 with 16 threads per cm in a width of 2.30 m.

Slubs found in linen are usually no problem; they establish the typical character of the fabric. But what about the bits of fiber sticking out?

For a test I cut a small piece. When I cut along a fabric thread,

I immediately met a thread with a distinctive array of fluffs,

as seen in the detail image below.

I made a test to check the strength of the thread; pulling it to see if it would break, I was surprised to see that the thread held!

Looking closer I noticed that the fibers sticking out could be pushed back and forth along the length of the thread. Thus they had not been tightly spun into the thread. I picked them out and

tested the breaking strength again. The thread held, and it is seen in the picture below that the thread itself did not get thinner. This result was reassuring.

But what about the fiber ends sticking out of the fabric here and there?

They are easily picked out

without leaving damages in the fabric.

To test the stitching qualities, I transferred a small design (to be shown in a future article).

As already mentioned, the fiber ends sticking out are easily picked out.

But what about the slubs encountered while withdrawing the threads?

I withdrew threads to establish an openwork grid.

Both threads with slubs

could be withdrawn without any problem.

The established holes were slightly wider than the other holes,

but they were absorbed into the design when working the filling pattern. The number of fluffs in the established grid was not higher than those found in grids worked on other batches of the same article; in fact there were fewer.

In addition I withdrew a long thread near the edge; it broke less often than it does in other batches.

Final result:
Perceived minor defects were proved to be inconsequential. These are small blemishes that do not hinder usability. It seems that bits of fiber and fluff flying around during the spinning process were not sufficiently noticed. The result was that they became attached to the emerging threads. On the other hand the threads were spun a little bit tighter than usual. Tightly spun threads are easy to withdraw.

In my opinion this linen is perfectly safe and appropriate to use for Schwalm whitework. After laundering the small fluffs disappear, and the typical linen character is especially effective.

Some days ago I received in the mail a sample of very fine linen. It is pure warp yarn linen – #180 with 20 threads/cm (50.8 tpi) – from the Weddigen weaving mill.

It is nearly an evenweave. I counted 20/18–19 threads/cm (50.8/45.72–48.26 tpi), as the enlarged detail below shows.

The linen has a nice “hand” and looks handsome.

At once I started to test it, and here is the result.
The linen is densely woven. The structure is clear with some typical linen slubs, as the photo on a light pad shows.

Withdrawing threads was easy in both directions. The thread did not break inside the 30 cm of my testing piece.

The subsequent withdrawn-thread line is clear without any fluff.

To test the stitching qualities, I transferred a small design; it will be shown in a future article.

Doing the prep stitches was pleasant. The needle glided smoothly through the linen.
Withdrawing threads was easy, and although my eyesight is no longer very good, I could do it wearing only my glasses; no magnification was needed.

After withdrawing the threads for the openwork grid, only a small amount of fluff remained. Viewing the grid, the slightly uneven weave is noticeable, but it is not at all distracting when working the filling patterns.

The dense weave enables one to place Satin stitches exactly where desired (please note that the picture below is greatly magnified and the piece has not yet been boiled),

and Blanket stitch eyelets (now seen boiled and ironed) can also be stitched with greater precision.

In all this is a wonderful fabric and a treasure for aficionados of fine linen.

This linen can be purchased here. Please email me with your request.

Kit #4 provides all materials required for lesson #4 Needle-Weaving Band Sampler. The lesson #4 project needs a linen piece measuring at least 50 cm X 60 cm. But perhaps one wants to add some more needle-weaving bands or a crown (content of a future article); to accommodate such a scenario, I decided to cut the linen to measure 50 cm X 100 cm – it can be easily cut to the desired length, whereas a too short piece is difficult to lengthen.

• linen – 14/cm thread count Übelhör natural linen about 50 cm X 100 cm
• linen – 14/cm thread count Übelhör natural linen about 30 cm X 30 cm for practicing
• Tapestry needle No. 24
• Tapestry needle No. 26
• Coton à broder No. 16 – 4 skeins, and No. 30 – 1 skein

Kit #4
14/cm thread count natural linen
needles
threads
item price: €27 (including 19% sales tax), €22.69 for customers outside the EU
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