Narrow Plait Wreath Doily

The design, with a diameter of 18 cm, is transferred to the fabric. The linen used has a 16/cm thread count. (If you are interested in getting the design, please email me – there is a small fee.)

The lines are covered with Coral Knot stitches using coton à broder No. 20.
flechtkranz_1Please, on the back side of the piece, do not span the threads across intersections; rather, secure them. Threads carried across intersections will, in the end, be visible and distract from the overall charm of the finished doily.
flechtkranz_2Using coton à broder No. 20, Chain stitches are worked a small distance from the Coral Knot stitches at the outside edge.
flechtkranz_3The Chain stitches are covered with densely worked Blanket stitches, also using coton à broder No. 20.
flechtkranz_4Using coton à broder No. 30, the small areas between the lines are outlined with Chain stitches.
flechtkranz_5Inside these small areas, threads are withdrawn to establish an openwork grid.
flechtkranz_6Cable stitches are worked into the grids using coton à broder No. 30. In each grid, the stitch should always run in the same direction.
flechtkranz_7The finished embroidery was boiled, starched, and ironed.
flechtkranz_8Then the piece was trimmed.
flechtkranz_9The result is a sweet little doily. The same design can be used to make doilies of differing sizes. In addition, variations are possible.
flechtkranz_10Years ago I worked a tea cloth with a similar design; it was rectangular, and I added a blue line of Chain stitches inside the double lines of the plait.
flechtkranz_11It looks so elegant displayed on a cloth of a matching colour.
flechtkranz_12And with matching dishes and table napkins, it always garners admiration and compliments from guests.

Tendrils – Practice Exercises (3)

One can practice stitching tendrils not only through abstract designs but also concrete or representational designs. The artist Gudrun Hartwig designed two different butterfly motifs especially for these practice exercises.

I chose a design size of 7.5 cm X 7.5 cm for decorating another pincushion.
2016-09-24_pdf
To work the double spirals, I began stitching at the turning point of each spiral to work one section first.
spir3_2Turning the piece, I then worked the remaining sections, up from the finished sections, toward their centers.
spir3_3The piece is washed – please wash gently so that the fabric edges do not fray – starched, and ironed.
After ironing – to iron I laid a dry towel on the ironing board and placed the embroidery right side down onto the towel – the lines emerge especially beautiful.
spir3_4Then, the piece is sewn, filled, and secured.
Another nice little pincushion is finished. But what does one do with all the pincushions? Here they are displayed on a tray; perhaps seasonal decorations or items matching the motif could be added.
For example I displayed the pincushion of the second practice exercise with some blue accessories, because the design makes me think of water and waves.
spir3_5Moving the butterfly pincushion to the focus of the display, I decided to add some flowers.
spir3_6The possibilities are endless – let your imagination run wild! At all events the tray with the pincushions is an eye-catcher enticing visitors to have a closer look and to discuss.

And for embroiderers having fun working representational double spirals, here is one more design:
spir3_7Both the artist’s hand-drawn renditions and the cleaner computer graphics are presented here. It is a matter of taste which to use – I chose to work from the original.
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Tendrils – Practice Exercises (2)

Today, I present some very special practice exercises. Looking for designs that would be suitable for practicing stitching tendrils, I got the idea to ask an artist. I was really surprised and delighted to receive designs from Gudrun Hartwig! She also designed the fabulous Fairy Tale creations on my blog. I asked her for square designs measuring 10 cm X 10 cm. As requested, one can work the designs with or without the square outline.
2016-09-17_pdf
To make another pincushion, I stitched a design without the square outline. First, I used two different thread weights – No. 16 and No. 20. A third – thicker – thread would be good for working tendrils with differing thicknesses. So I also used a No. 12 thread.
spir2_2My finished project is very special, isn’t it?
spir2_3Here are some more stunning designs; they will allow you to make unique projects while practicing stitching tendrils.
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Tendrils – Practice Exercises (1)

“Practice make perfect” when it comes to stitching tendrils. Presented here are two similar designs to make two different projects – perfect for learning to stitch tendrils.
2016-09-10_pdf
The first design measures 7.5 cm X 7.5 cm. The design is transferred to a piece of linen measuring 14 cm X 26 cm. A pincushion will be worked. The first steps can be found here, and the finishing steps can be found here. (One can also work such a pincushion using two pieces of fabric each measuring 14 cm X 14 cm.)
spir1_2For my example, I used a fine handwoven linen and coton à broder No. 16 for all the Coral knot stitches.
(You will notice that a circle design on a piece of fabric stretched in a hoop will be no longer be a true circle. This doesn`t matter because it will return to a circle in the end.)
spir1_3Since the focus is to practice stitching tendrils, a filling pattern for the shape in the center or for the ring is not absolutely necessary. However, the ring with only Coral Knot lines is not prominent enough. So, using coton à broder No. 20, Chain stitches are worked next to the Coral Knot lines.
spir1_4The piece is washed – please wash gently so that the fabric edges will not fray – starched, and ironed.
spir1_5Then, the piece is sewn, filled, and secured.
A nice little pincushion is finished.
spir1_6For the second project – an ornament – the design is shrunk so that it fits into a ring with a diameter of about 7.5 cm. The inner circle is deleted so that the center can accommodate a filling pattern.
spir1_7Coton à broder No. 16 is used for Coral Knot stitches, No. 20 for Blanket stitches and for Chain stitches. At the outside edge, Coral Knot stitches are worked along the inner line. Chain stitches are worked a small distance outside these Coral Knot stitches. The outside Chain stitches are covered with densely worked Blanket stitches between the outline and the Coral Knot line.
spir1_8Using coton à broder No. 16 all remaining Coral Knot stitches are worked, and using coton à broder
No. 30 Chain stitches are worked directly inside the Coral Knot stitches of the center circle. The shape is filled with an openwork Cable stitch grid. For detailed descriptions please refer to my books Basic Principles of Schwalm Whitework, Openwork Pattern Samplers or Ornaments (lesson #3). Openwork is nice for an ornament and pleasantly contrasts with the outside ring with the tendrils.
spir1_9After finishing, the embroidered piece is washed (boiled), starched, and ironed.
spir1_10Then, the circle is cut.
The result is one more nice ornament for trimming the tree.
spir1_11This design is also nice for decorating a long, small pattern band with a couple of similar patterns.
spir1_12I hope you enjoy these practice exercises!

A Wide Hem with a Folded Peahole Edging

(If you came to this blog post via pinterest, please take a look here too.)

In previous articles I showed how to work a folded Peahole edging and how to work the corner of the folded Peahole edging. Now I present a wide hem with a mitered corner and a folded Peahole edging.
Linen with a 13.5/cm thread count is cut to measure 26 cm X 26 cm. The center is marked.
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From the center point, count 40 horizontal and 40 vertical threads, and cut the forty-first thread; withdraw the threads to their intersection point.
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The section of the withdrawn thread measures 3 cm. The opposite thread end is now withdrawn about 3.5 cm.
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Outward from the withdrawn-thread line, leave 4 threads, and cut the fifth thread where it aligns with the center; withdraw it about 3.5 cm to both sides.
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Starting at the left at the vertical withdrawn-thread line, work Four-Sided stitches over 4 threads between the two horizontal withdrawn-thread lines. Work 20 stitches in all and stop.
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Cut the vertical thread to the right of the center mark (again, the forty-first thread) and withdraw it about 3.5 cm in both directions.
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Leave 4 threads to the right, and withdraw the fifth. Turn the work 90° counterclockwise,
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and continue working Four-Sided stitches around the corner.
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After working 21 (counting the Four-Sided stitch at the corner) Four-Sided stitches, withdraw perpendicular threads in the established way. Also withdraw the cut thread of the first withdrawnthread line about 3.5 cm and the fifth thread outward from this line. Work Four-Sided stitches around the entire square.
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Leave 6 threads outward each side, and cut the seventh in the middle of the side. Leave 4 threads outward, and cut the fifth in the middle. Withdraw the thread ends of the outermost cut threads to their respective intersection points.
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Now withdraw all the cut threads on the inside up to these lines. The thread ends remain there. They will disappear in the hem later.
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Around the square work 20 Four-Sided stitches between the outside withdrawn-thread lines on each side; these stitches must match the inner Four-Sided stitches. The corner sections remain free.
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Cut and withdraw the remaining 6 threads. Baste the thread ends in place and work Peaholes.
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Now prepare the section for the wide hem. Therefore, a number of threads divisible by 8 plus 2 are needed. In this example I chose 34.
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So, out from the outer withdrawn-thread line count 34 threads, and cut the thirty-fifth thread. From now on all threads can be withdrawn up to the edge of the linen.
Please note, if you will work a wide hem as I show here, this counted section is the front of the hem.
You must have enough remaining fabric for working the Peaholes, the back side of the hem, and a fold. Please keep this in mind so that you do not have too little fabric in the end.
Leave 4 threads outward and withdraw the fifth.
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Work Four-Sided stitches around the entire square.
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Withdrawn more threads:

leave 8 cut 1
leave 4 cut 1
leave 34 cut 1

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Work the Peaholes for the folded Peahole edging and trim the fabric for the hem fold to about 1 cm.
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Mark the sewing line for the mitered corner. The line should run diagonally through the outside Four-Sided stitches.
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Fold the piece exactly – right sides together. Sew by hand or by machine.
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Trim the seam allowance to about 1 cm.
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Turn the hem corner. For more information about hemming please look to my book Basic Principles of Schwalm Whitework.
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Fasten the hem, work the corners of the inside Peahole hem. Continue working the folded Peahole edging.
Wash, starch and iron the piece. Leave it as it is – a nice little doily. Or use it for making a beautiful lavender sachet. If you were to add a loop for hanging and a tassel, it is also well-suited for a lovely ornament for trimming the tree.
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If you would like to work a larger project, square or rectangle in any size, counting fabric threads from the center of the piece is nearly impossible. And the order of working is somewhat different from the order presented in this blog post.
So, I made a leaflet for downloading; it explains in great detail how to withdraw fabric threads, how to work wrapped Peaholes for both the hem and the folded edging, how to make a mitered corner in the hem, and finishing.
On 17 pages, illustrated with 70 pictures, you will find all the needed step-by-step instructions for working a wide hem with a folded Peahole edging.
Titel Erbslochkante deutsch

A Wide Hem with a Folded Peahole Edging
described in great detail
and
illustrated with step-by-step instructions
17 pages
7,8 MB file size
Text: English
15,00 € (12,61 € + 19 % value added tax)
download here