tips and tricks

Did you also learn to work rows of Four-Sided stitches like me – from the front of the fabric and from right to left?

Working hundreds of hems using Four-Sided stitches, I discovered a much easier and faster way of stitching. It is worked from the back of the fabric and from left to right.

Working this way is going to be the least stressful on your wrist joint, because in two of the needed three stitches it is held straight,

and for only one stitch it is bent.

Did you test it already?

Below are the instructions for Limet grids in shapes positioned on the bias.

A pattern embellishment in a symmetrical shape will look perfect only if it is symmetrically arranged.
Circles, ovals, and squares are point symmetric; they need an intersection of withdrawn-thread lines at their centers from which the pattern can radiate in all directions – it makes no difference if the shape lies on the straight of grain or on the bias.

Tulips, hearts, and some other shapes are axially symmetric; they need intersections of withdrawn-thread lines along the center axis from which the pattern can be established on both sides.

For all shapes other than circles, the center axis is marked first (best with a light pen line on the back of the fabric – thread withdrawal is also done from the back side).

In point-symmetric shapes, the center horizontal (or vertical) thread is now withdrawn.

Afterwards, to establish the center intersection of withdrawn-thread lines that meet the marked axis, the center vertical (or horizontal) thread is withdrawn.

For axially-symmetric shapes any thread that crosses the marked center axis is withdrawn; it makes no difference to begin with a horizontal or vertical thread.

In shapes with deep interior points (e.g., some tulips), it is possible – but not absolutely necessary – to begin withdrawing the threads directly below the interior point.

The next thread to be withdrawn is perpendicular to the first withdrawn-thread line; it intersects the first withdrawn-thread line at the marked line.

From the first two withdrawn-thread lines (vertical and horizontal), the Limet grid is established by alternately leaving 3 (or sometimes 4) and cutting 1.

So far, I have featured only one filling pattern that needs such a Limet grid:
No. 471

The first lesson on how to establish a Limet grid dealt with the basic knowledge needed for working Limet patterns on the straight of grain with an intersection of withdrawn-thread lines in the center or a withdrawn-thread line as the center axis. Now I will present the second installment of Limet grid basic knowledge.

As already mentioned, a pattern embellishment in a symmetrical shape will look perfect only if it is symmetrically arranged. In addition, different patterns need different grid preparation.

Below are the instructions for Limet grids needed for patterns on the straight of grain with a square in the center or a group of three threads as the center axis.

Circles, ovals, and squares are point symmetric; they need a square at their centers from which the pattern can radiate in all directions.

Tulips, hearts, and some other shapes are axially symmetric; they need a group of three threads as the center axis from which the pattern can be established on both sides.

For both shape types, the center vertical thread and the two adjacent threads remain, and the next threads (1 to the left and 1 to the right) are withdrawn first.

In point-symmetric shapes, the center horizontal thread and the two adjacent threads remain, and the next threads (1 above and 1 below) are now withdrawn to establish the center square.

For axially-symmetric shapes there are some decisions to make before commencing to withdraw the horizontal threads; it depends on how a pattern should be arranged. Usually it can begin with the fourth thread from the bottom.

In some shapes, where the pattern should match the top outline, it begins with the fourth thread from the top of a shape.

In shapes with deep interior points (e.g., hearts and some tulips), it is good to begin withdrawing the horizontal threads directly below the interior point,

or directly above the bottom interior point.

From the three just established withdrawn-thread lines (vertical and horizontal), the Limet grid is established by alternately leaving 3 (or sometimes 4) and cutting 1.

Below is a list of filling patterns (previously featured on this blog) that need this type of Limet grid.
No. 473
No. 472
No. 451
No. 449

Next months, some of my blog posts will feature filling patterns for Schwalm whitework. To eliminate the need to repeat information, I will first explain some basic knowledge.

A pattern embellishment in a symmetrical shape will look perfect only if it is symmetrically arranged. In addition, different patterns need different grid preparation.

Below are the instructions for Limet grids needed for patterns on the straight of grain with an intersection of withdrawn-thread lines in the center or a withdrawn-thread line as the center axis.

Circles, ovals, and squares are point symmetric; they need an intersection of withdrawn-thread lines at their centers from which the pattern can radiate in all directions.

Tulips, hearts, and some other shapes are axially symmetric; they need a withdrawn-thread line as the center axis from which the pattern can be established on both sides.

For both shape types, the center vertical thread is withdrawn first.

In point-symmetric shapes, the center horizontal thread is now withdrawn to establish the center intersection of withdrawn-thread lines.

For axially-symmetric shapes there are some decisions to make before commencing to withdraw the horizontal threads; it depends on how a pattern should be arranged. Usually it begins with the fourth thread from the bottom.

In some shapes, where the pattern should match the top outline, it begins with the fourth thread from the top of a shape.

In shapes with deep interior points (e.g., hearts and some tulips), it is good to begin withdrawing the horizontal threads directly below the interior point.

From the two just established withdrawn-thread lines (vertical and horizontal), the Limet grid is established by alternately leaving 3 (or sometimes 4) and cutting 1.

Below is a list of filling patterns (previously featured on this blog) that need this type of Limet grid.
No. 540
No. 480
No. 477
No. 476
No. 475
No. 474
No. 469
No. 450
No. 448
No. 447
No. 444

In addition to being used for inserting lace or joining lengths of linen, the Plaited Insertion stitch can also be used as a decorative surface stitch. Out of curiosity I wanted to know how a corner might be turned when using this stitch.

I used a small mirror to create a right angle at different places. The above corner looks beautiful, but I cannot figure out a way to embroider it. Whereas I was able to embroider the corner below.

I stretched a piece of linen with 13.5 threads per cm in a hoop and withdrew two fabric threads eight threads apart for better orientation. Using coton à broder No. 16, I started to work some three-group stitches. I decided to not make stitch placement marks, choosing to place the stiches one fabric thread apart instead.

Arriving at an outside middle stitch, where the direction has to change, I decided to set the corner. At this point, I withdrew perpendicular fabric threads.

Instead of travelling to the right-hand point of the bottom line, I took the needle to the right-hand point of the outside line around the corner.

From there I worked in the established way, but always between the perpendicular outside lines.

To find the right order for plaiting, it is helpful to look at the previously established plait.

From the middle point the direction of the stitches has to change again.

Now the work continues between inner and outer lines.

I am not 100 percent satisfied with the result – the guide lines are a little bit distracting and the distances between the groupings are not quite even – but as a practice piece it is good enough to see that working a corner using the Plaited insertion stitch is possible.

And that was my goal.