Filling Pattern – No. 563

category: Limet-Filling pattern
linen used: 13.5/cm thread count
threads used: coton à broder No. 20
stitches used: Rose and diagonal Back stitches
center: intersection of withdrawn thread lines (in other shapes or motifs: longitudinal axis = withdrawn thread line)
one pattern segment = 40 threads

After many patterns for small and medium-sized areas, I will now present one for very large areas. A single pattern segment spans 10 squares – that’s 40 threads of fabric!

I came across the pattern years ago when I was visiting an exhibition.

Of course, I immediately tried to find out how it was worked. My pattern is slightly different.

The filling pattern shown here is a practice exercise only. You can see it used in a shape at the end of this article.

First, establish a Limet grid with an intersection of withdrawn thread lines as center by alternately cutting 1, leaving 3, vertically and horizontally.

First work one Rose stitch around the center. Then bring the needle up two squares below the center.
Now work 12 Back stitches diagonally across the squares around the Rose stitch. To clarify the run of the stitches, I have created an overview:

From the emerging point two squares below the center point, move 1 square diagonally to the top right, insert and bring the needle up 1 square to the left again. It is important that you catch the working thread that runs along the back. Always take care to keep the holes between the stitches well defined and open. As a result, the pattern appears clear and sharply defined in the end.

Again move the needle over 1 square diagonally to the top right, insert and bring it up again 2 squares to the left and 1 square down.

Move the needle over 1 square diagonally to the bottom right, insert and bring it up again 2 squares diagonally to the top left.

Rotate the work 90° counter-clockwise. From here you repeat the first three Back stitches by moving 1 square diagonally to the top right, insert and bring the needle up 1 square to the left again.

Again move the needle over 1 square diagonally to the top right, insert and bring it up again 2 squares to the left and 1 square down.

Move the needle over 1 square diagonally to the bottom right, insert and bring it up again 2 squares diagonally to the top left.

Again rotate the work 90° counter-clockwise. From here you repeat the first three Back stitches by moving 1 square diagonally to the top right, insert and bring the needle up 1 square to the left again.

Again move the needle over 1 square diagonally to the top right, insert and bring it up again 2 squares to the left and 1 square down.

Move the needle over 1 square diagonally to the bottom right, insert and bring it up again 2 squares diagonally to the top left.

Again rotate the work 90° counter-clockwise. From here you repeat the first three Back stitches by moving 1 square diagonally to the top right, insert and bring the needle up 1 square to the left again.

Again move the needle over 1 square diagonally to the top right, insert and bring it up again 2 squares to the left and 1 square down.

Move the needle over 1 square diagonally to the bottom right, insert and bring it up again 2 squares diagonally to the top left.

The round closes with the twelfth stitch. A criss-cross pattern of stitches has emerged around the Rose stitch. I don’t think this formation is prominent enough. So I repeat the twelve stitches.
From the stitch after the last Back stitch, the needle is moved 1 square to the left. There is the center of the first surrounding Rose stitch.

A total of 12 Rose stitches are worked around the cross.

With the center section complete, it now makes sense to create the Rose stitch grid for the entire pattern.

From the center of the last Rose stitch, move the needle up 1 square up, bring it up and turn the work 90° counter-clockwise. From here work a diagonal row of Rose stitches to the edge. These stitches intertwine into the Rose stitches of the middle section.

Parallel to this and at a distance of 7 free holes – seen on a horizontal line – between the centers of the Rose stitches of both rows, another Rose stitch row is embroidered along the middle part.

Two further rows of Rose stitches are worked crosswise.

One further Rose stitch row is embroidered outwards each existing one.

The grid is completed with double rows of rose stitches across the entire shape.

First, the cross formations with the Rose stitch centers are embroidered in the remaining spaces.

One could leave the Rose stitches surrounding the cross, but I embroidered them for completion.

The positions of the centers of the Rose stitches are shown in the graphic by red dots.

Embroidered it looks like this:

If all remaining spaces of the grid are filled, it looks like this:

One can only divine the contrast between the flat Rose stitches and the raised cross formations.

After laundry, it becomes clearer.

In the original it appears as its small rose flowers embedded in the rose stitch grid.

Filling Patterns for Small Areas

Two of my blog readers recently told me about their search for patterns for small areas. Reason enough to deal with this topic in detail. At first one might think that the selection isn’t very large. But in fact there is a whole range of very different, well-suited patterns.

Typically, the smallest pattern segment – this section of a pattern that always repeats to establish the actual pattern – in all three categories – simple withdrawn thread, Limet, and openwork patterns – spreads over four fabric threads.

Such a segment should be repeated at least three times, preferably five times, in order to achieve an attractive and pleasing pattern.

Here one can work

• Wave stitches
• Satin stitch bars
• Four-Sided stitches
• Four-Sided stitches/wrong side up
• the Square Eyelet pattern Net
Cable stitches and
• Single Faggot stitches
• Cross stitches
• Double Crosses – in straight rows (seen here)
• Double Crosses – in straight rows/wrong side up
• slanting Herringbone stitches and
• slanting Herringbone stitches/wrong side up

As has been shown repeatedly, the pattern segments can be reduced by changing the thread withdrawing and leaving two threads between one withdrawn thread. This again applies to all catogories, simple, Limet and openwork patterns.

In pictures 9 and 10 of Sofa Cushion Cover 1(B) you can see the Wave stitch in the reduced grid and compare in picture 7 with the Wave stitch in the usual grid. Pictures 12 and 13 of this article show the Cable stitch in the reduced openwork thread grid. In pictures 13 and 16 is the
Single Faggot stitch seen in both reduced and standard thread grids.

Also in the patterns of the poppy flower you can see the difference between reduced and usual thread withdrawing.

Another comparison can be found in this article on pictures 8 and 9.

If you have a little more space, you can work patterns with a segment of 8 threads (or 6 threads in the reduced thread grid). These patterns can also be described as small patterns. In these thread grids you can work

• Honey Comb Darning stitches ,
• different Satin stitch patterns
Rose stitches and the Rose stitch variant (seen here – pictures 3,4 and 5)
• different Square Eyelet patterns
• Diagonal Cross Filling
• Double Diagonal Cross Filling stitches
• Diagonal Cross Filling – French variation (seen here)
• Diagonal Cross Filling – French variation/wrong side up
• Diagonal Cross Filling – French variation/“half“(seen here)
• Diagonal Cross Filling – French variation/“half“/wrong side up
• Diagonal Cross Filling – French variation/“vertical half“ Double Back stitches
• Double Back stitches/wrong side up
Easy Eyelet stitches
• Easy Eyelet stitches/wrong side up (seen here pictures 11 and 12)
• Filling Pattern No. 555
• Filling Pattern No. 549
• Filling Pattern No. 479
• Filling Pattern No. 560

and certainly many more.

As you can see, the choice of patterns for small areas is huge!

Here are a few impressions of differently embroidered small areas.

Filling Pattern – No. 562

category: simple drawn thread filling pattern
linen used: 13.5/cm thread-count
threads used: coton à broder No. 20
stitches used: Wrap stitches
horizontal center axis: quadruple withdrawn thread line

The flower motif with the openwork leaves is found on the Schwalm Parade Cushion Border (B).

As you can see from the detail of the original embroidery, it is a kind of staggered pea holes, which do not have Four-Sided stitches as a basis, but consist exclusively of wrap stitches.

I have tried different ways and recommend embroidering the pattern as described below.

Alternate withdrawing 4 fabric threads in one direction and leaving 2 in between. The pattern builds up from the bottom right to the top left.

To do this, wrap around 6 fabric threads of the lowest wide withdrawn thread line 3-4 times.

*Then slide the needle diagonally to the top left under the horizontal pair of fabric threads to the next withdrawn thread line and bring it up between the third and fourth thread of the bundle.

Repeat the stitch once,

return to the starting point and slide the needle under the wrapped bundle of threads to the opposite side.

From there, the needle is led diagonally to the top right crossing over the horizontal pair of threads, inserted again between the third and fourth thread of the bundle and emerges again at the starting point.

Once again, the needle is led diagonally to the top right crossing over the horizontal pair of threads, inserted again between the third and fourth threads of the bundle. This time bring the needle up 6 fabric threads to the left.

The 6 fabric threads lying on the needle form the next bundle. But before you can wrap it, you have to connect the left 3 threads to the underlying pair of threads.
To do this, the needle is led diagonally over the pair of threads to the bottom right, inserted next to the wrapped bundle and brought up again at the starting point.

This stitch is also repeated once,

to then wrap the two bundles of 3 threads together.*

Repeat the steps of working(*).

Reaching the top edge, turn the work 180° and embroider the next row next to the first.

In the places where the thread pairs are already wrapped, these steps can be omitted.
Some rows – not all – move close to the previous one. You can move the bundles slightly with the needle tip to achieve even distances.

In this way, an airy pattern is created that is suitable for filling not too large areas.

Filling Pattern – No. 561

category: simple drawn thread filling pattern
linen used: 13.5/cm thread-count
threads used: coton à broder No. 20 for the Four-Sided and No. 16 for the Peaholes
stitches used: Four-Sided stitches and a variation of wrapped Peaholes
horizontal center axis: double withdrawn thread line

The pomegranate motifs come from the Schwalm parade cushion border (B).

As you can see from the two pictures with the original embroidery, the pattern has been worked slightly differently.

Actually it is a variation of the wrapped Peahole,
which can be seen here from the front

and back.

Erbslochkante_7

The main difference is the use of thicker thread and additional wrapping of the ends of adjacent bundles of threads.
From this I derived a variation that does not fully correspond to the original, but comes very close.

The pattern shown below is a practice exercise only.

It makes sense to start thread withdrawing in the middle. Here I first have withdrawn the middle pair of threads and then removed 5 more fabric threads on each side, so a total of 12 threads.

Four threads are now alternately left on both sides of the withdrawn thread line and another is withdrawn.

Four-Sided stitches (coton à broder No. 20) are embroidered from the back over the four remaining threads, each bundling 4 fabric threads.

Using coton à broder No. 16 the resulting bundles of threads are wrapped and joined together into Peaholes.

Start with the right bundle of threads and wrap – from bottom to top – around it 12-14 times. The wrapping thread should lie evenly next to each other and should be the same in number across all thread bundles.

*The thread is slide under the crosses of the Four-Sided stitches to the next bundle of threads.

Now wrap from top to bottom. First, the unprocessed bundle and the one to the right of it are joined together by two wrappings.

Then continue to wrap the left bundle of threads until you reach the bottom edge.

There the two thread bundles are pulled together again by two wrappings

and the thread is slide under the crosses of the Four-Sided stitches to the next bundle of threads.

Again wrap from bottom to top, but this time only up to the middle. There, the partially unprocessed bundle of threads and the bundle of threads to the right of it are tightly pulled together with two wrappings.

Then the left thread bundle is wrapped until reaching the upper edge.*

The steps (*) are repeated, on the way down the bundles of threads are joined together at the edges

and on the way up in the middle.

From the front, it looks like this:

Then the remaining area is filled with Four-Sided stitches.

A pretty pattern – particularly suitable for long, narrow motifs – is established.

I have noticed that the variant of the peaholes, which are also wrapped together at the edges, makes working the folded peahole edging much easier.

Filling Pattern – No. 560

Filling Pattern – No. 560

category: openwork filling pattern without Cable stitch grid
linen used: 13.5/cm thread count
threads used: coton à broder No. 20
stitches used: Double Back stitches
center: intersection of four fabric threads
one pattern segment = 6 threads

The filling pattern shown here is a practice exercise only. You can see it used in a shape at the end of this article.

First, establish an openwork grid with an intersection of four threads in the center by cutting 2, leaving 4 (!) both vertically and horizontally.

Work Double Back stitches in eight steps as establishes in the article Filling Pattern – No. 559 (here shown without turning the piece).

Continue working Double Back stitches in the established way covering each intersection square to fil the entire shape.

From the front the pattern looks like this:

This pattern is similar to the “Filling Pattern – No. 469 “, but here the stitches of the working threads are not pulled together in the end.

As a result, the intersection squares remain relatively flat

Filling Pattern – No. 560 is also embroidered in an elaborate border of a parade cushion from 1821.